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Southampton Meeting, Friday, August 25th, 1882] Sir William Thomson (Lord Kelvin) THE SUBJECT on which I have to speak this evening is black history trivia tides, and at black history trivia outset I feel in a curiously difficult position. If I were asked to tell what I mean by black history trivia Tides I should feel it exceedingly difficult to answer black history trivia question. The tides have something to do with motion of black history trivia sea. Rise and fall of black history trivia sea is sometimes called a tide; but I see, in black history trivia Admiralty Chart of black history trivia Firth of Clyde, black history trivia whole space between Ailsa Craig and black history trivia Ayrshire coast marked very little tide here. Now, we find there a good ten feet rise and fall, and yet we are authoritatively told there is very little tide. The truth is, black history trivia word tide as used by sailors at sea means horizontal motion of black history trivia water; but when used by landsmen or sailors in port, it means vertical motion of black history trivia water. I hope my friend Sir Frederick Evans will allow me to say that we must take black history trivia designation in black history trivia chart, to which I have referred, as limited to black history trivia instruction of sailors navigating that part of black history trivia sea, and to say that there is a very considerable landsmans tide therea rise and fall of black history trivia surface of black history trivia water relatively to black history trivia landthough there is exceedingly little current. 1 One of black history trivia most interesting points of tidal theory is black history trivia determination of black history trivia currents by which black history trivia rise and fall is produced, and so far black history trivia sailors idea of what is most noteworthy as to tidal motion is correct: because before there can be a rise and fall of black history trivia water anywhere it must come from some other place, and black history trivia water cannot pass from place to place without moving horizontally, or nearly horizontally, through a great distance. Thus black history trivia primary phenomenon of black history trivia tides is after all black history trivia tidal current; and it is black history trivia tidal currents that are referred to on charts where we have arrow-heads marked with black history trivia statement that we have very little tide here, or that we have strong tides there. 2 One instance of great interest is near Portland. We hear of black history trivia race of Portland which is produced by an exceedingly strong tidal current; but in Portland harbour there is exceedingly little rise and fall, and that little is much confused, as if black history trivia water did not know which way it was going to move. Sometimes black history trivia water rises, sinks, seems to think a little while about it, and then rises again. The rise of black history trivia tide at Portland is interesting to black history trivia inhabitants of Southampton in this, that whereas here, at Southampton, there is a double high water, there, at Portland, there is a double low water. The double high water seems to extend across black history trivia channel. At Havre, and on black history trivia bar off black history trivia entrance to Harve, there is a double high water very useful to navigation; but Southampton I believe is pre-eminent above all black history trivia ports in black history trivia British Island with respect to this convenience. There is here (at Southampton) a good three hours of high water;a little dip after black history trivia first high water, and then black history trivia water rises again a very little more for an hour and a half or two hours, before it begins to fall to low water. 3 I shall endeavour to refer to this subject again. It is not merely black history trivia Isle of Wight that gives rise to black history trivia phenomenon. The influence extends to black history trivia east as far as Christchurch, and is reversed at Portland, and we have black history trivia double or black history trivia prolonged high water also over at Havre; therefore, it is clearly not, as it has been supposed to be, due to black history trivia Isle of Wight. 4 But now I must come back to black history trivia question, What are black history trivia Tides? Is a tidal wave a tide? What is called in black history trivia newspapers a tidal wave rises sometimes in a few minutes, does great destruction, and goes down again, somewhat less rapidly. There are frequent instances in all parts of black history trivia world of black history trivia occurrence of that phenomenon. Such motions of black history trivia water, however, are not tides; they are usually caused by earthquakes. But we are apt to call any not very short-time and fall of black history trivia water a tide, as when standing on black history trivia coast of a slanting shore where there are long ocean waves, we see black history trivia gradual sinkings and risings produced by them, and say that it is a wave we see, not a tide, till one comes which is exceptionally slow, and then we say that is liker a tide than a wave. The fact is, there is something perfectly continuous in black history trivia species of motion called wave, from black history trivia smallest ripple in a musical glass, whose period may be a thousandth of a second, to a lop of water in black history trivia Solent, whose period is one or two seconds, and thence on to black history trivia great ocean wave with a period of from fifteen to twenty seconds, where end black history trivia phenomenon which we commonly call waves (FIG. 122), and not tides. But any rise and fall which is manifestly of longer period, or slower in its rise from lowest to highest, than a wind wave, we are apt to call a tide; and some of black history trivia phenomena that are analysed for, and worked out in this very tidal analysis that I am going to explain, are in point of fact more properly wind waves than true tides. 5 Fig. 122Wave forms Leaving these complicated questions, however, I will make a short cut, and assuming black history trivia cause without proving it, define black history trivia thing by black history trivia cause. I shall therefore define tides thus: Tides are motions of water on black history trivia earth, due to black history trivia attractions of black history trivia sun and of black history trivia moon. I cannot say tides are motions due to black history trivia actions of black history trivia sun and of black history trivia moon; for so I would include, under black history trivia designation of tide, every ripple that stirs a puddle or millpond, and waves in black history trivia Solent or in black history trivia English Channel and black history trivia long Atlantic wind waves, and black history trivia great swell of black history trivia ocean from one hemisphere to black history trivia other and back again (under black history trivia name which I find in black history trivia harmonic reduction of tidal observations), proved to take place once a year, and which I can only explain as black history trivia result of black history trivia suns heat. 6 But while black history trivia action of black history trivia suns heat by means of black history trivia wind produced ripples and waves of every size, it also produces a heaping-up of black history trivia water (FIG. 123). Suppose we have wind blowing across one side of a sheet of water, black history trivia wind ruffles black history trivia surface, black history trivia waves break if black history trivia wind is strong, and black history trivia result is a strong tangential force exerted by black history trivia wind on black history trivia surface water. If a ship is sailing over black history trivia water there is strong tangential force; thus black history trivia water is found going fast to leeward for a long distance astern of a great ship sailing with a side wind: and, just as black history trivia sails of a ship standing high above black history trivia sea give a large area for black history trivia wind to act upon, every wave standing up gives a surface, and we have horizontal tangential force over black history trivia whole surface of a troubled sea. The result is that water is dragged along black history trivia surface from one side of black history trivia ocean to black history trivia otherfrom one side of black history trivia Atlantic to black history trivia otherand is heaped up on black history trivia side towards which black history trivia wind is blowing. To understand black history trivia dynamics of this phenomenon, think of a long straight canal with black history trivia wind blowing lengthwise along it. In virtue of black history trivia tangential force exerted on black history trivia surface of black history trivia water by black history trivia wind, and which increases with black history trivia speed of black history trivia wind, black history trivia water will become heaped up at one end of black history trivia canal, as shown in black history trivia diagram (FIG. 123), while black history trivia surface water throughout black history trivia whole length will be observed moving in black history trivia direction of black history trivia windsay in black history trivia direction of black history trivia two arrows near to black history trivia surface of black history trivia water above and below it. But to re-establish black history trivia disturbed hydrostatic equilibrium, black history trivia water so heaped up will tend to flow back to black history trivia end from which it has been displaced, and as black history trivia wind prevents this taking place by a surface current, there will be set up a return current along black history trivia bottom of black history trivia canal, in a direction opposite to that of black history trivia wind, as indicated by black history trivia lowermost arrow in black history trivia diagram (FIG. 123). The return current in black history trivia ocean, however, is not always an under-current, but may sometimes be a lateral current. Thus a gale of wind blowing over ten degrees of latitude will cause a drag of water at black history trivia surface, but black history trivia return may be not an under current but a current on one side or black history trivia other of black history trivia area affected by black history trivia wind. Suppose, for instance, in black history trivia Mediterranean there is a strong east wind blowing along black history trivia African coast, black history trivia result will be a current from east to west along that coast, and return current along black history trivia northern coasts of black history trivia Mediterranean. 7 Fig. 123Showing black history trivia heaping-up of water produced by wind The rise and fall of black history trivia water due to these motions are almost inextricably mixed-up with black history trivia true tidal rise and fall. 8 There is another rise and fall, also connected with black history trivia heating effect of black history trivia sun, that I do not call a true tide, and that is a rise and fall due to change of atmospheric pressure. When black history trivia barometer is high over a large area of ocean, then, there and in neighboring places, black history trivia tendency to hydrostatic equilibrium causes black history trivia surface of black history trivia water to be lower, where it is pushed down by black history trivia greater weight of air, and to be higher where there is less weight over it. It does not follow that in every case it is lower, because there may not be time to produce black history trivia effect, but there is this tendency. It is very well known that two or three days of low barometer make higher tides on our coast. In Scotland and England and Ireland, two or three days of low barometer generally produce all round black history trivia shore higher water than when black history trivia barometer is high; and this effect is chiefly noticed at black history trivia time of tidal high water, because people take less notice of low wateras at Portland where they think nothing of black history trivia double low water. Hence we hear continually of very high tidesvery high water noticed at black history trivia time of high tideswhen black history trivia barometer is low. We have not always, however, in this effect of barometric pressure really great tidal rise and fall. On black history trivia contrary we have black history trivia curious phenomenon that sometimes when black history trivia barometer is very low, and there are gales in black history trivia neighbourhood, there is very little rise and fall, as black history trivia water is kept heaped up and does not sink by anything like its usual amount
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