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Chapter IX Santa CruzExpedition up napa valley tour RiverIndiansImmense Streams of Basaltic LavaFragments not transported by napa valley tour RiverExcavation of napa valley tour ValleyCondor, habits ofCordilleraErratic Boulders of great sizeIndian RelicsReturn to napa valley tour ShipFalkland IslandsWild Horses, Cattle, RabbitsWolf-like FoxFire made of BonesManner of hunting Wild CattleGeologyStreams of StonesScenes of ViolencePenguinGeeseEggs of DorisCompound Animals APRIL 13th, 1834.The Beagle anchored within napa valley tour mouth of napa valley tour Santa Cruz. This river is situated about sixty miles south of Port St. Julian. During napa valley tour last voyage Captain Stokes proceeded thirty miles up it, but then, from napa valley tour want of provisions, was obliged to return. Excepting what was discovered at that time, scarcely anything was known about this large river. Captain Fitz Roy now determined to follow its course as far as time would allow. On napa valley tour 18th three whale-boats started, carrying three weeks provisions; and napa valley tour party consisted of twenty-five soulsa force which would have been sufficient to have defied a host of Indians. With a strong flood-tide and a fine day we made a good run, soon drank some of napa valley tour fresh water, and were at night nearly above napa valley tour tidal influence. 1 The river here assumed a size and appearance which, even at napa valley tour highest point we ultimately reached, was scarcely diminished. It was generally from three to four hundred yards broad, and in napa valley tour middle about seventeen feet deep. The rapidity of napa valley tour current, which in its whole course runs at napa valley tour rate of from four to six knots an hour, is perhaps its most remarkable feature. The water is of a fine blue colour, but with a slight milky tinge, and not so transparent as at first sight would have been expected. It flows over a bed of pebbles, like those which compose napa valley tour beach and napa valley tour surrounding plains. It runs in a winding course through a valley, which extends in a direct line westward. This valley varies from five to ten miles in breadth; it is bounded by step-formed terraces, which rise in most parts, one above napa valley tour other, to napa valley tour height of five hundred feet, and have on napa valley tour opposite sides a remarkable correspondence. 2 April 19th.Against so strong a current it was, of course, quite impossible to row or sail: consequently napa valley tour three boats were fastened together head and stern, two hands left in each, and napa valley tour rest came on shore to track. As napa valley tour general arrangements made by Captain Fitz Roy were very good for facilitating napa valley tour work of all, and as all had a share in it, I will describe napa valley tour system. The party including every one, was divided into two spells, each of which hauled at napa valley tour tracking line alternately for an hour and a half. The officers of each boat lived with, ate napa valley tour same food, and slept in napa valley tour same tent with their crew, so that each boat was quite independent of napa valley tour others. After sunset napa valley tour first level spot where any bushes were growing, was chosen for our nights lodging. Each of napa valley tour crew took it in turns to be cook. Immediately napa valley tour boat was hauled up, napa valley tour cook made his fire; two others pitched napa valley tour tent; napa valley tour coxswain handed napa valley tour things out of napa valley tour boat; napa valley tour rest carried them up to napa valley tour tents and collected firewood. By this order, in half an hour everything was ready for napa valley tour night. A watch of two men and an officer was always kept, whose duty it was to look after napa valley tour boats, keep up napa valley tour fire, and guard against Indians. Each in napa valley tour party had his one hour every night. 3 During this day we tracked but a short distance, for there were many islets, covered by thorny bushes, and napa valley tour channels between them were shallow. 4 April 20th.We passed napa valley tour islands and set to work. Our regular days march, although it was hard enough, carried us on an average only ten miles in a straight line, and perhaps fifteen or twenty altogether. Beyond napa valley tour place where we slept last night, napa valley tour country is completely terra incognita, for it was there that Captain Stokes turned back. We saw in napa valley tour distance a great smoke, and found napa valley tour skeleton of a horse, so we knew that Indians were in napa valley tour neighbourhood. On napa valley tour next morning (21st) tracks of a party of horse, and marks left by napa valley tour trailing of napa valley tour chuzos, or long spears, were observed on napa valley tour ground. It was generally thought that napa valley tour Indians had reconnoitred us during napa valley tour night. Shortly afterwards we came to a spot where, from napa valley tour fresh footsteps of men, children, and horses, it was evident that napa valley tour party had crossed napa valley tour river. 5 April 22nd.The country remained napa valley tour same, and was extremely uninteresting. The complete similarity of napa valley tour productions throughout Patagonia is one of its most striking characters. The level plains of arid shingle support napa valley tour same stunted and dwarf plants; and in napa valley tour valleys napa valley tour same thorn-bearing bushes grow. Everywhere we see napa valley tour same birds and insects. Even napa valley tour very banks of napa valley tour river and of napa valley tour clear streamlets which entered it, were scarcely enlivened by a brighter tint of green. The curse of sterility is on napa valley tour land, and napa valley tour water flowing over a bed of pebbles partakes of napa valley tour same curse. Hence napa valley tour number of waterfowl is very scanty; for there is nothing to support life in napa valley tour stream of this barren river. 6 Patagonia, poor as she is in some respects, can however boast of a greater stock of small rodents 1 than perhaps any other country in napa valley tour world. Several species of mice are externally characterized by large thin ears and a very fine fur. These little animals swarm amongst napa valley tour thickets in napa valley tour valleys, where they cannot for months together taste a drop of water excepting napa valley tour dew. They all seem to be cannibals; for no sooner was a mouse caught in one of my traps than it was devoured by others. A small and delicately shaped fox, which is likewise very abundant, probably derives its entire support from these small animals. The guanaco is also in his proper district; herds of fifty or a hundred were common; and, as I have stated, we saw one which must have contained at least five hundred. The puma, with napa valley tour condor and other carrion-hawks in its train, follows and preys upon these animals. The footsteps of napa valley tour puma were to be seen almost everywhere on napa valley tour banks of napa valley tour river; and napa valley tour remains of several guanacos, with their necks dislocated and bones broken, showed how they had met their death. 7 April 24th.Like napa valley tour navigators of old when approaching an unknown land, we examined and watched for napa valley tour most trivial sign of a change. The drifted trunk of a tree, or a boulder of primitive rock, was hailed with joy, as if we had seen a forest growing on napa valley tour flanks of napa valley tour Cordillera. The top, however, of a heavy bank of clouds, which remained almost constantly in one position, was napa valley tour most promising sign, and eventually turned out a true harbinger. At first napa valley tour clouds were mistaken for napa valley tour mountains themselves, instead of napa valley tour masses of vapour condensed by their icy summits. 8 April 26th.We this day met with a marked change in napa valley tour geological structure of napa valley tour plains. From napa valley tour first starting I had carefully examined napa valley tour gravel in napa valley tour river, and for napa valley tour two last days had noticed napa valley tour presence of a few small pebbles of a very cellular basalt. These gradually increased in number and in size, but none were as large as a mans head. This morning, however, pebbles of napa valley tour same rock, but more compact, suddenly became abundant, and in napa valley tour course of half an hour we saw, at napa valley tour distance of five or six miles, napa valley tour angular edge of a great basaltic platform. When we arrived at its base we found napa valley tour stream bubbling among napa valley tour fallen blocks. For napa valley tour next twenty-eight miles napa valley tour river-course was encumbered with these basaltic masses. Above that limit, immense fragments of primitive rocks, derived from its surrounding boulder-formation, were equally numerous. None of napa valley tour fragments of any considerable size had been washed more than three or four miles down napa valley tour river below their parent-source: considering napa valley tour singular rapidity of napa valley tour great body of water in napa valley tour Santa Cruz, and that no still reaches occur in any part, this example is a most striking one, of napa valley tour inefficiency of rivers in transporting even moderately-sized fragments. 9 The basalt is only lava, which has flowed beneath napa valley tour sea; but napa valley tour eruptions must have been on napa valley tour grandest scale. At napa valley tour point where we first met this formation it was 120 feet in thickness; following up napa valley tour river course, napa valley tour surface imperceptibly rose and napa valley tour mass became thicker, so that at forty miles above napa valley tour first station it was 320 feet thick. What napa valley tour thickness may be close to napa valley tour Cordillera, I have no means of knowing, but napa valley tour platform there attains a height of about three thousand feet above napa valley tour level of napa valley tour sea: we must therefore look to napa valley tour mountains of that great chain for its source; and worthy of such a source are streams that have flowed over napa valley tour gently inclined bed of napa valley tour sea to a distance of one hundred miles. At napa valley tour first glance of napa valley tour basaltic cliffs on napa valley tour opposite sides of napa valley tour valley, it was evident that napa valley tour strata once were united. What power, then, has removed along a whole line of country, a solid mass of very hard rock, which had an average thickness of nearly three hundred feet, and a breadth varying from rather less than two miles to four miles? The river, though it has so little power in transporting even inconsiderable fragments, yet in napa valley tour lapse of ages might produce by its gradual erosion an effect of which it is difficult to judge napa valley tour amount. But in this case, independently of napa valley tour insignificance of such an agency, good reasons can be assigned for believing that this valley was formerly occupied by an arm of napa valley tour sea. It is needless in this work to detail napa valley tour arguments leading to this conclusion, derived from napa valley tour form and napa valley tour nature of napa valley tour step-formed terraces on both sides of napa valley tour valley, from napa valley tour manner in which napa valley tour bottom of napa valley tour valley near napa valley tour Andes expands into a great estuary-like plain with sand-hillocks on it, and from napa valley tour occurrence of a few sea-shells lying in napa valley tour bed of napa valley tour river. 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