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On 14th April we left our camp in the afternoon, and, after
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marching nine miles, during which we passed two small streams,
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flowing, like all others, from this point, west to the Atbara, we
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slept by a large pool in a third stream of considerable size. A
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waterfall flowed over a row of perpendicular basalt columns that
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surrounded a deep basin, resembling piles of ebony artificially
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arranged. On the following morning we started before sunrise, and
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rode over the usual pathless burnt prairies, until we reached the
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base of Nahoot Guddabi, the mountain for which we had been
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steering. Eight miles farther, we arrived at Metemma, a Tokroori
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village, in the heart of the mountains, twenty-seven miles from
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our last resting-place, and fifty-one miles from our camp on the
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Salaam river. From this point to the river Salaam, the entire
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country slopes perceptibly to the west--the drainage being
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carried to the Atbara by numerous streams. The country that we
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had now entered, was inhabited exclusively by Tokrooris, although
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belonging to Abyssinia. They came out to meet us upon our arrival
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at the village, and immediately fraternised with those of our
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people that belonged to their tribe, from whom they quickly
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learnt all about us. They brought us a he-goat, together with
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milk and honey. The latter we had revelled in for some months
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past, as the countries through which we travelled abounded with
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a supply in the rocks and hollow trees; but the milk was a
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luxury, as our goats were nearly dry. The he-goat was a regular
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old patriarch of the flock, and, for those who are fond of
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savoury food, it might have been a temptation, but as it exhaled
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a perfume that rendered its presence unbearable, we were obliged
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to hand it over as a present to our Tokrooris--even they turned
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up their noses at the offer. A crowd of natives surrounded us,
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and the account of our travels was related with the usual
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excitement, amidst the ejaculations of the hearers, when they
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heard that we had been in the country of the Base, and had
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trusted ourselves in the power of Mek Nimmur.
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On the following morning we were off before sunrise, and marched
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rapidly over a good path through low forest, at the foot of a
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range of hills; and after a journey of twenty miles, during which
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we had passed several small villages, and many brooks that flowed
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from the mountains, we arrived at our old friend, the Atbara
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river, at the sharp angle as it issues from the mountains. At
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this place it was in its infancy. The noble Atbara whose course
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we had tracked for hundreds of weary miles, and whose tributaries
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we had so carefully examined, was a second-class mountam torrent,
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about equal to the Royan, and not to be named in comparison with
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the Salaam or Angrab. The power of the Atbara depended entirely
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upon the western drainage of the Abyssinian Alps: of itself it
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was insignificant, until aided by the great arteries of the
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mountain chain. The junction of the Salaam at once changed its
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character; and the Settite or Taccazzy completed its importance
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as the great river of Abyssinia, that has washed down the fertile
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soil of those regions to create the Delta of Lower Egypt; and to
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perpetuate that Delta by annual deposits, that ARE NOW FORMING A
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NEW EGYPT BENEATH THE WATERS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN. We had seen
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the Atbara a bed of glaring sand--a mere continuation of the
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burning desert that surrounded its course, fringed by a belt of
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withered trees, like a monument sacred to the memory of a dead
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river. We had seen the sudden rush of waters when, in the still
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night, the mysterious stream had invaded the dry bed, and swept
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all before it like an awakened giant; we knew at that moment "the
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rains were falling in Abyssinia," although the sky above us was
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without a cloud. We had subsequently witnessed that tremendous
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rainfall, and seen the Atbara at its grandest flood. We had
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traced each river, and crossed each tiny stream, that fed the
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mighty Atbara from the mountain chain, and we now, after our long
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journey, forded the Atlara in its infancy, hardly knee deep, over
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its rocky bed of about sixty yards width, and camped in the
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little village of Toganai, on the rising ground upon the opposite
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side. It was evening, and we sat upon an angarep among the lovely
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hills that surrounded us, and looked down upon the Atbara for the
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last time, as the sun sank behind the rugged mountain of Ras el
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