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not enjoyed for months, but as this increased both in size and
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density, accompanied by a gust of cool wind, we were led to
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expect a still greater wonder--RAIN! Hardly had we halted for the
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night, when down it came in torrents, accompanied by a heavy
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thunderstorm. On the following morning, we experienced the
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disadvantage of rain; the ground was so slippery that the camels
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could not march, and we were obliged to defer our start until the
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sun had dried the surface.
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We had now arrived at the most interesting point to an explorer.
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From Cairo to within a few miles south of Gozerajup stretched the
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unbroken desert through which we had toiled from Korosko, and
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which had so firmly impressed its dreariness upon the mind that
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nothing but desert had been expected: we had learned to be
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content in a world of hot sand, rocks, and pebbles; but we had
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arrived upon the limit; the curious landmark of Gozerajup was an
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everlasting beacon that marked the frontier of the Nubian desert;
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it was a giant warder, that seemed to guard the living south from
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the dreadful skeleton of nature on the north; the desert had
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ceased!
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It was a curious and happy coincidence that onr arrival upon the
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limits of the desert should have been celebrated by the first
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shower of rain: we no longer travelled upon sand and stones, but
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we stood upon a fertile loam, rendered soapy and adhesive by the
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recent shower. The country was utterly barren at that season, as
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the extreme heat of the sun and simoom destroys all vegetation so
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thoroughly that it becomes as crisp as glass; the dried grass
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breaks in the wind, and is carried away in dust, leaving the
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earth so utterly naked and bare that it is rendered a complete
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desert.
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In the rainy season, the whole of this country, from the south to
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Gozerajup, is covered with excellent pasturage, and, far from
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resembling a desert, it becomes a mass of bright green herbage.
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The Arabs and their flocks are driven from the south by the flies
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and by the heavy rains, and Gozerajup offers a paradise to both
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men and beasts; thousands of camels with their young, hundreds of
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thousands of goats, sheep, and cattle, are accompanied by the
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Arabs and their families, who encamp on the happy pastures during
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the season of plenty.
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We had now passed the hunts occupied by the Bishareens, and we
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had entered upon the country of the Hadendowa Arabs. These are an
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exceedingly bad tribe, and, together with their neighbours, the
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Hallonga Arabs, they fought determinedly against the Egyptians,
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until finally conquered during the reign of the famous Mehemet
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Ala Pasha, when the provinces of Nubia submitted unconditionally,
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and became a portion of Upper Egypt.
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Upon arrival at Soojalup we came upon the principal encampment of
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the Hadendowa during the dry season. Within a few miles of this
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spot the scene had changed: instead of the bare earth denuded of
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vegetation, the country was covered with jungle, already nearly
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green, while the vast plains of grass, enlivened by beautiful
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herds of antelopes, proved not only the fertility of the soil,
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but the presence of moisture. Although there was no stream, nor
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any appearance of a river's bed, Soojalup was well supplied with
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water throughout the hottest season by numerous wells. This spot
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is about forty miles distant from Gozerajup, and is the first
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watering-place upon the route to Cassala. As we approached the
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wells, we passed several large villages surrounded by fenced
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gardens of cotton, and tobacco, both of which throve exceedingly.
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Every village possessed a series of wells, with a simple
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contrivance for watering their cattle:--Adjoining the mouth of
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each well was a basin formed of clay, raised sufficiently high
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above the level of the ground to prevent the animals from
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treading it while drinking. With a rope and a leathern bag
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distended by pieces of stick, the water was raised from the wells
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and emptied into the clay basins; the latter were circular, about
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nine feet in diameter, and two feet deep. I measured the depth of
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some of the wells, and found a uniformity of forty feet. We
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halted at Soojalup for the night: here for the first time I saw
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the beautiful antelope known by the Arabs as the Ariel (Gazelle
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Dama). This is a species of gazelle, being similar in form and in
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