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party, had got rid of us in a most gentlemanly manner. At length
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we arrived at a village, where we had much difficulty in
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procuring provisions for ourselves and people.
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On the 11th June, having slept at the village of Abou Dome, we
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started at sunrise, and at 9 A.M. we reached the bank of the
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river, opposite to Khartoum. We were delighted with the view, as
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the morning sun shone upon the capital of the Soudan provinces;
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the grove of date trees shaded the numerous buildings, their dark
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green foliage contrasting exquisitely with the many coloured
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houses on the extreme margin of the beautiful river; long lines
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of vessels and masts gave life to the scene, and we felt that
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once more, after twelve months of utterly wild life, we had
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arrived in civilization. We had outridden our camels, therefore
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we rode through a shallow arm of the river, and arrived upon an
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extensive sandbank that had been converted into a garden of
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melons; from this point a large ferry-boat plied regularly to the
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town on the south bank. In a few minutes we found ourselves on
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board, with our sole remaining horse, Tetel, also the donkeys
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that we had purchased in Berber before our expedition, and our
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attendants. As we gained the centre of the river, that was about
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800 yards broad, we were greeted by the snort of three of our old
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friends, the hippopotami, who had been attracted to the
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neighbourhood by the garden of water-melons. We landed at
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Khartoum, and, having climbed up the steep bank, we inquired the
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way to the British Consulate.
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The difference between the view of Khartoum at the distance of a
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mile, with the sun shining upon the bright river Nile in the
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foreground, to the appearance of the town upon close inspection,
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was about equal to the scenery of a theatre as regarded from the
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boxes or from the stage; even that painful exposure of an optical
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illusion would be trifling compared with the imposture of
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Khartoum; the sense of sight had been deceived by distance, but
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the sense of smell was outraged by innumerable nuisances, when we
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set foot within the filthy and miserable town. After winding
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through some narrow dusty lanes, hemmed in by high walls of
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sun-baked bricks, that had fallen in gaps in several places,
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exposing gardens of prickly pears and date palms, we at length
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arrived at a largeplace, that, if possible, smelt more
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strongly than the landing spot. Around this square, which was
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full of holes where the mud had been excavated for brickmaking,
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were the better class of houses; this was the Belgravia of
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Khartoum. In the centre of a long mud wall, ventilated by certain
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attempts at frameless windows, guarded by rough wooden bars, we
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perceived a large archway with closed doors; above this entrance
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was a shield, with a device that gladdened my English eyes: there
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was the British lion and the unicorn! Not such a lion as I had
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been accustomed to meet in his native jungles, a yellow cowardly
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fellow, that had often slunk away from the very prey from which
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I had driven him, but a real red British lion, that, although
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thin and ragged in the unhealthy climate of Khartoum, looked as
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though he was pluck to the backbone.
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This was the English Consulate. I regarded our lion and unicorn
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for a few moments with feelings of veneration; and as Mr.
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Petherick, the consul, who was then absent on the White Nile in
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search of Speke and Grant, had very kindly begged me to occupy
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some rooms in the Consulate, we entered a large courtyard, and
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were immediately received by two ostriches that came to meet us;
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these birds entertained us by an impromptu race as hard as they
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could go round the courtyard, as though performing in a circus.
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When this little divertissement was finished, we turned to the
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right, and were shown by a servant up a flight of steps into a
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large airy room that was to be our residence, which, being well
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protected from the sun, was cool and agreeable. Mr. Petherick had
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started from Khartoum in the preceding March, and had expected to
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meet Speke and Grant in the upper portion of the Nile regions, on
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their road from Zanzibar; but there are insurmountable
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difficulties in those wild countries, and his expedition met with
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unforeseen accidents, that, in spite of the exertions of both
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himself, his very devoted wife, Dr. Murie, and two or three
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