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journey having occupied ninety-two hours of actual marching
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across the desert, gives 230 miles as the distance from Korosko,
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at the loaded-camel rate of two and a half miles per hour. The
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average duration of daily march has been upwards of thirteen
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hours, including a day's halt at Moorahd. My camels have arrived
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in tolerable condition, as their loads did not exceed 400 lbs.
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each; the usual load is 500 lbs.
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May 24.--Rested both men and beasts. A caravan of about thirty camels arrived, having lost three during the route. May 25.--Started at 5 A.M. The route is along the margin of the
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Nile, to which the desert extends. A fringe of stunted bushes,
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and groves of the coarse and inelegant dome palm, mark the banks
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of the river by a thicket of about half a mile in width. I saw
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many gazelles, and succeeded in stalking a fine buck, and killing
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him with a rifle.
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May 26.--Marched ten hours. Saw gazelles, but so wild that it was impossible to shoot. Thermometer 110 degrees Fahr. May 27.--Marched four hours and forty-five minutes, when we were
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obliged to halt, as F. is very ill. In the evening I shot two
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gazelles, which kept the party in meat.
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May 28.--Marched fifteen hours, to make up for the delay of yesterday. Shot a buck on the route. May 29.--The march of yesterday cut off an angle of the river,
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and we made a straight course through the desert, avoiding a bend
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of the stream. At 7.30 this morning we met the Nile again; the
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same character of country as before, the river full of rocks, and
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forming a succession of rapids the entire distance from Abou
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Hammed. Navigation at this season is impossible, and is most
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dangerous even at flood-time. The simoom is fearful, and the heat
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is so intense that it was impossible to draw the gun-cases out of
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their leather covers, which it was necessary to cut All
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woodwork is warped; ivory knife-handles are split; paper breaks
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when crunched in the hand, and the very marrow seems to be dried
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out of the bones by this horrible simoom. One of our camels fell
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down to die. Shot two buck gazelles; I saw many, but they are
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very wild.
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May 3O.--The extreme dryness of the air induces an extraordinary amount of electricity in the hair, and in all woollen materials. A Scotch plaid laid upon a blanket for a few hours adheres to it, and upon being roughly withdrawn at night a sheet of flame is produced, accompanied by tolerably loud reports. May 31.--After an early march of three hours and twenty minutes,
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we arrived at the town of Berber, on the Nile, at 9.35 A.M. We
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have been fifty-seven hours and five minutes actually marching
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from Abou Hammed, which, at two and a half miles per hour, equals
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143 miles. We have thus marched 373 miles from Korosko to Berber
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in fifteen days; the entire route is the monotonous Nubian
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desert. Our camels have averaged twenty-five miles per day, with
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loads of 400 lbs. at a cost of ninety piastres (about 19s.) each,
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for the whole distance. This rate, with the addition of the
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guide's expenses, equals about 5s. 6d. per 100 lbs. for carriage
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throughout 373 miles of burning desert. Although this frightful
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country appears to be cut off from all communication with the
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world, the extremely low rate of transport charges affords great
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facility for commerce."*
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* Since that date, 31st May, 1861, the epidemic or cattle
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plague carried off an immense number of camels, and the
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charges of transport rose in 1864 and 1865 to a rate that
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completely paralysed the trade of Upper Egypt.
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Berber is a large town, and in appearance is similar to the Nile
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towns of Lower Egypt, consisting of the usual dusty, unpaved
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streets, and flat-roofed houses of sun-baked bricks. It is the
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seat of a Governor, or Mudir, and is generally the quarters for
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about 1,500 troops. We were very kindly received by Halleem
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Effendi, the ex-Governor, who at once gave us permission to pitch
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the tents in his garden, close to the Nile, on the southern
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outskirt of the town. After fifteen days of desert marching, the
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sight of a well-cultivated garden was an Eden in our eyes. About
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eight acres of land, on the margin of the river, were thickly
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planted with lofty date groves, and shady citron and lemon trees,
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beneath which we revelled in luxury on our Persian rugs, and
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enjoyed complete rest after the fatigue of our long journey.
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Countless birds were chirping and singing in the trees above us;
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innumerable ring-doves were cooing in the shady palms; and the
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sudden change from the dead sterility of the desert to the scene
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of verdure and of life, produced an extraordinary effect upon the
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