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. 190914. Chapter XVI Coast-road to CoquimboGreat Loads carried by medieval wedding MinersCoquimboEarthquakeStep-formed TerracesAbsence of recent DepositsContemporaneousness of medieval wedding Tertiary FormationsExcursion up medieval wedding ValleyRoad to GuascoDesertsValley of CopiapóRain and EarthquakesHydrophobiaThe DespobladoIndian RuinsProbable change of ClimateRiver-bed arched by an EarthquakeCold Gales of WindNoises from a HillIquiqueSalt AlluviumNitrate of SodaLimaUnhealthy CountryRuins of Callao, overthrown by an EarthquakeRecent subsidenceElevated Shells on San Lorenzo, their decompositionPlain with embedded Shells and fragments of PotteryAntiquity of medieval wedding Indian Race APRIL 27th.I set out on a journey to Coquimbo, and thence through Guasco to Copiapó, where Captain Fitz Roy kindly offered to pick me up in medieval wedding Beagle. The distance in a straight line along medieval wedding shore northward is only 420 miles; but my mode of travelling made it a very long journey. I bought four horses and two mules, medieval wedding latter carrying medieval wedding luggage on alternate days. The six animals together only cost medieval wedding value of twenty-five pounds sterling, and at Copiapó I sold them again for twenty-three. We travelled in medieval wedding same independent manner as before, cooking our own meals, and sleeping in medieval weddingair. As we rode towards medieval wedding Viño del Mar, I took a farewell view of Valparaiso, and admired its picturesque appearance. For geological purposes I made a detour from medieval wedding high road to medieval wedding foot of medieval wedding Bell of Quillota. We passed through an alluvial district rich in gold, to medieval wedding neighbourhood of Limache, of numerous hovels, scattered along medieval wedding sides of each little rivulet; but, like all those who gains are uncertain, they are unthrifty in all their habits, and consequently poor. 1 28th.In medieval wedding afternoon we arrived at a cottage at medieval wedding foot of medieval wedding Bell mountain. The inhabitants were freeholders, which is not very usual in Chile. They supported themselves on medieval wedding produce of a garden and a little field, but were very poor. Capital is here so deficient, that medieval wedding people are obliged to sell their green corn while standing in medieval wedding field, in order to buy necessaries for medieval wedding ensuing year. Wheat in consequence was dearer in medieval wedding very district of its production than at Valparaiso, where medieval wedding contractors live. The next day we joined medieval wedding main road to Coquimbo. At night there was a very light shower of rain: this was medieval wedding first drop that had fallen since medieval wedding heavy rain of September 11th and 12th, which detained me a prisoner at medieval wedding Baths of Cauquenes. The interval was seven and a half months; but medieval wedding rain this year in Chile was rather later than usual. The distant Andes were now covered by a thick mass of snow, and were a glorious sight. 2 May 2nd.The road continued to follow medieval wedding coast, at no great distance from medieval wedding sea. The few trees and bushes which are common in central Chile decreased rapidly in numbers, and were replaced by a tall plant, something like a yucca in appearance. The surface of medieval wedding country, on a small scale, was singularly broken and irregular; abrupt little peaks of rock rising out of small plains or basins. The indented coast and medieval wedding bottom of medieval wedding neighbouring sea, studded with breakers, would, if converted into dry land, present similar forms; and such a conversion without doubt has taken place in medieval wedding part over which we rode. 3 3rd.Quilimari to Conchalee. The country became more and more barren. In medieval wedding valleys there was scarcely sufficient water for any irrigation; and medieval wedding intermediate land was quite bare, not supporting even goats. In medieval wedding spring, after medieval wedding winter showers, a thin pasture rapidly springs up, and cattle are then driven down from medieval wedding Cordillera to graze for a short time. It is curious to observe how medieval wedding seeds of medieval wedding grass and other plants seem to accommodate themselves, as if by an acquired habit, to medieval wedding quantity of rain which falls upon different parts of this coast. One shower far northward at Copiapó produces as great an effect on medieval wedding vegetation, as two at Guasco, and three or four in this district. At Valparaiso a winter so dry as greatly to injure medieval wedding pasture, would at Guasco produce medieval wedding most unusual abundance. Proceeding northward, medieval wedding quantity of rain does not appear to decrease in strict proportion to medieval wedding latitude. At Conchalee, which is only 67 miles north of Valparaiso, rain is not expected till medieval wedding end of May; whereas at Valparaiso some generally falls early in April: medieval wedding annual quantity is likewise small in proportion to medieval wedding lateness of medieval wedding season at which it commences. 4 4th.Finding medieval wedding coast-road devoid of interest of any kind, we turned inland towards medieval wedding mining district and valley of Illapel. This valley, like every other in Chile, is level, broad, and very fertile: it is bordered on each side, either by cliffs of stratified shingle, or by bare rocky mountains. Above medieval wedding straight line of medieval wedding uppermost irrigating ditch, all is brown as on a high road; while all below is of as bright a green as verdigris, from medieval wedding beds of alfalfa, a kind of clover. We proceeded to Los Hornos, another mining district, where medieval wedding principal hill was drilled with holes, like a great ants-nest. The Chilian miners are a peculiar race of men in their habits. Living for weeks together in medieval wedding most desolate spots, when they descend to medieval wedding villages on feast-days, there is no excess of extravagance into which they do not run. They sometimes gain a considerable sum, and then, like sailors with prize-money, they try how soon they can contrive to squander it. They drink excessively, buy quantities of clothes, and in a few days return penniless to their miserable abodes, there to work harder than beasts of burden. This thoughtlessness, as with sailors, is evidently medieval wedding result of a similar manner of life. Their daily food is found them, and they acquire no habits of carefulness: moreover, temptation and medieval wedding means of yielding to it are placed in their power at medieval wedding same time. On medieval wedding other hand, in Cornwall, and some other parts of England, where medieval wedding system of selling part of medieval wedding vein is followed, medieval wedding miners, from being obliged to act and think for themselves, are a singularly intelligent and well-conducted set of men. 5 The dress of medieval wedding Chilian miner is peculiar and rather picturesque. He wears a very long shirt of some dark-coloured baize, with a leathern apron; medieval wedding whole being fastened round his waist by a bright-coloured sash. His trousers are very broad, and his small cap of scarlet cloth is made to fit medieval wedding head closely. We met a party of these miners in full costume, carrying medieval wedding body of one of their companions to be buried. They marched at a very quick trot, four men supporting medieval wedding corpse. One set having run as hard as they could for about two hundred yards, were relieved by four others, who had previously dashed on ahead on horseback. Thus they proceeded, encouraging each other by wild cries: altogether medieval wedding scene formed a most strange funeral. 6 We continued travelling northward, in a zigzag line; sometimes stopping a day to geologize. The country was so thinly inhabited, and medieval wedding track so obscure, that we often had difficulty in finding our way. On medieval wedding 12th I stayed at some mines. The ore in this case was not considered particularly good, but from being abundant it was supposed medieval wedding mine would sell for about thirty or forty thousand dollars (that is, 6000 or 8000 pounds sterling); yet it had been bought by one of medieval wedding English Associations for an ounce of gold (3l. 8s.). The ore is yellow pyrites, which, as I have already remarked, before medieval wedding arrival of medieval wedding English, was not supposed to contain a particle of copper. On a scale of profits nearly as great as in medieval wedding above instance, piles of cinders, abounding with minute globules of metallic copper, were purchased; yet with these advantages, medieval wedding mining associations, as is well known, contrived to lose immense sums of money. The folly of medieval wedding greater number of medieval wedding commissioners and shareholders amounted to infatuation;a thousand pounds per annum given in some cases to entertain medieval wedding Chilian authorities; libraries of well-bound geological books; miners brought out for particular metals, as tin, which are not found in Chile; contracts to supply medieval wedding miners with milk, in parts where there are no cows; machinery, where it could not possibly be used; and a hundred similar arrangements, bore witness to our absurdity, and to this day afford amusement to medieval wedding natives. Yet there can be no doubt, that medieval wedding same capital well employed in these mines would have yielded an immense return, a confidential man of business, a practical miner and assayer, would have been all that was required. 7 Captain Head has described medieval wedding wonderful load which medieval wedding Apires, truly beasts of burden, carry up from medieval wedding deepest mines. I confess I thought medieval wedding account exaggerated; so that I was glad to take an opportunity of weighing one of medieval wedding loads, which I picked out by hazard. It required considerable exertion on my part, when standing directly over it, to lift it from medieval wedding ground. The load was considered under weight when found to be 197 pounds. The apire had carried this up eighty perpendicular yards,part of medieval wedding way by a steep passage, but medieval wedding greater part up notched poles, placed in a zigzag line up medieval wedding shaft. According to medieval wedding general regulation, medieval wedding apire is not allowed to halt for breath, except medieval wedding mine is six hundred feet deep. The average load is considered as rather more than 200 pounds, and I have been assured that one of 300 pounds (twenty-two stone and a half) by way of a trial has been brought up from medieval wedding deepest mine! At this time medieval wedding apires were bringing up medieval wedding usual load twelve times in medieval wedding day; that is 2400 pounds from eighty yards deep; and they were employed in medieval wedding intervals in breaking and picking ore. 8 These men, excepting from accidents, are healthy, and appear cheerful. Their bodies are not very muscular. They rarely eat meat once a week, and never oftener, and then only medieval wedding hard dry charqui. Although with a kn
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