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914. Chapter XXI Mauritius, beautiful appearance ofGreat crateriform ring of MountainsHindoosSt. HelenaHistory of free car history report changes in free car history report VegetationCause of free car history report extinction of Land-shellsAscensionVariation in free car history report imported RatsVolcanic BombsBeds of InfusoriaBahiaBrazilSplendour of Tropical SceneryPernambucoSingular ReefSlaveryReturn to EnglandRetrospect on our Voyage APRIL 29th.In free car history report morning we passed round free car history report northern end of Mauritius, or free car history report Isle of France. From this point of view free car history report aspect of free car history report island equalled free car history report expectations raised by free car history report many well-known descriptions of its beautiful scenery. The sloping plain of free car history report Pamplemousses, interspersed with houses, and coloured by free car history report large fields of sugar-cane of a bright green, composed free car history report foreground. The brilliancy of free car history report green was free car history report more remarkable because it is a colour which generally is conspicuous only from a very short distance. Towards free car history report centre of free car history report island groups of wooded mountains rose out of this highly cultivated plain; their summits, as so commonly happens with ancient volcanic rocks, being jagged into free car history report sharpest points. Masses of white clouds were collected around these pinnacles, as if for free car history report sake of pleasing free car history report strangers eye. The whole island, with its sloping border and central mountains, was adorned with an air of perfect elegance: free car history report scenery, if I may use such an expression, appeared to free car history report sight harmonious. 1 I spent free car history report greater part of free car history report next day in walking about free car history report town and visiting different people. The town is of considerable size, and is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants; free car history report streets are very clean and regular. Although free car history report island has been so many years under free car history report English Government, free car history report general character of free car history report place is quite French: Englishmen speak to their servants in French, and free car history report shops are all French; indeed, I should think that Calais or Boulogne was much more Anglified. There is a very pretty little theatre, in which operas are excellently performed. We were also surprised at seeing large booksellers shops, with well-stored shelves;music and reading bespeak our approach to free car history report old world of civilization; for in truth both Australia and America are new worlds. 2 The various races of men walking in free car history report streets afford free car history report most interesting spectacle in Port Louis. Convicts from India are banished here for life; at present there are about 800, and they are employed in various public works. Before seeing these people, I had no idea that free car history report inhabitants of India were such noble-looking figures. Their skin is extremely dark, and many of free car history report older men had large mustaches and beards of a snow-white colour; this, together with free car history report fire of their expression, gave them quite an imposing aspect. The greater number had been banished for murder and free car history report worst crimes; others for causes which can scarcely be considered as moral faults, such as for not obeying, from superstitious motives, free car history report English laws. These men are generally quiet and well-conducted ; from their outward conduct, their cleanliness, and faithful observance of their strange religious rites, it was impossible to look at them with free car history report same eyes as on our wretched convicts in New South Wales. 3 May 1st.Sunday. I took a quiet walk along free car history report sea-coast to free car history report north of free car history report town. The plain in this part is quite uncultivated; it consists of a field of black lava, smoothed over with coarse grass and bushes, free car history report latter being chiefly Mimosas. The scenery may be described as intermediate in character between that of free car history report Galapagos and of Tahiti; but this will convey a definite idea to very few persons. It is a very pleasant country, but it has not free car history report charms of Tahiti, or free car history report grandeur of Brazil. The next day I ascended La Pouce, a mountain so called from a thumb-like projection, which rises close behind free car history report town to a height of 2,600 feet. The centre of free car history report island consists of a great platform, surrounded by old broken basaltic mountains, with their strata dipping seawards. The central platform, formed of comparatively recent streams of lava, is of an oval shape, thirteen geographical miles across, in free car history report line of its shorter axis. The exterior bounding mountains come into that class of structures called Craters of Elevation, which are supposed to have been formed not like ordinary craters, but by a great and sudden upheaval. There appears to me to be insuperable objections to this view: on free car history report other hand, I can hardly believe, in this and in some other cases, that these marginal crateriform mountains are merely free car history report basal remnants of immense volcanos, of which free car history report summits either have been blown off, or swallowed up in subterranean abysses. 4 From our elevated position we enjoyed an excellent view over free car history report island. The country on this side appears pretty well cultivated, being divided into fields and studded with farm-houses. I was, however, assured that of free car history report whole land, not more than half is yet in a productive state; if such be free car history report case, considering free car history report present large export of sugar, this island, at some future period when thickly peopled, will be of great value. Since England has taken possession of it, a period of only twenty-five years, free car history report export of sugar is said to have increased seventy-five fold. One great cause of its prosperity is free car history report excellent state of free car history report roads. In free car history report neighbouring Isle of Bourbon, which remains under free car history report French government, free car history report roads are still in free car history report same miserable state as they were here only a few years ago. Although free car history report French residents must have largely profited by free car history report increased prosperity of their island, yet free car history report English government is far from popular. 5 3rd.In free car history report evening Captain Lloyd, free car history report Surveyor-general, so well known from his examination of free car history report Isthmus of Panama, invited Mr. Stokes and myself to his country-house, which is situated on free car history report edge of Wilheim Plains, and about six miles from free car history report Port. We stayed at this delightful place two days; standing nearly 800 feet above free car history report sea, free car history report air was cool and fresh, and on every side there were delightful walks. Close by, a grand ravine has been worn to a depth of about 500 feet through free car history report slightly inclined streams of lava, which have flowed from free car history report central platform. 6 5th.Captain Lloyd took us to free car history report Riviere Noire, which is several miles to free car history report southward, that I might examine some rocks of elevated coral. We passed through pleasant gardens, and fine fields of sugarcane growing amidst huge blocks of lava. The roads were bordered by hedges of Mimosa, and near many of free car history report houses there were avenues of free car history report mango. Some of free car history report views, where free car history report peaked hills and free car history report cultivated farms were seen together, were exceedingly picturesque; and were constantly tempted to exclaim, How pleasant it would be to pass ones life in such quiet abodes! Captain Lloyd possessed an elephant, and he sent it half way with us, that we might enjoy a ride in true Indian fashion. The circumstance which surprised me most was its quite noiseless step. This elephant is free car history report only one at present on free car history report island; but it is said others will be sent for. 7 May 9th.We sailed from Port Louis, and, calling at free car history report Cape of Good Hope, on free car history report 8th of July, we arrived off St. Helena. This island, free car history report forbidding aspect of which has been so often described, rises abruptly like a huge black castle from free car history report ocean. Near free car history report town, as if to complete natures defence, small forts and guns fill up every gap in free car history report rugged rocks. The town runs up a flat and narrow valley; free car history report houses look respectable, and are interspersed with a very few green trees. When approaching free car history report anchorage there was one striking view: an irregular castle perched on free car history report summit of a lofty hill, and surrounded by a few scattered fir-trees, boldly projected against free car history report sky. 8 The next day I obtained lodgings within a stones throw of Napoleons tomb; 1 it was a capital central situation, whence I could make excursions in every direction. During free car history report four days I stayed here, I wandered over free car history report island from morning to night, and examined its geological history. My lodgings were situated at a height of about 2000 feet; here free car history report weather was cold and boisterous, with constant showers of rain; and every now and then free car history report whole scene was veiled in thick clouds. 9 Near free car history report coast free car history report rough lava is quite bare: in free car history report central and higher parts, feldspathic rocks by their decomposition have produced a clayey soil, which, where not covered by vegetation, is stained in broad bands of many bright colours. At this season, free car history report land moistened by constant showers, produces a singularly bright green pasture, which lower and lower down, gradually fades away and at last disappears. In latitude 16°, and at free car history report trifling elevation of 1500 feet, it is surprising to behold a vegetation possessing a character decidedly British. The hills are crowned with irregular plantations of Scotch firs; and free car history report sloping banks are thickly scattered over with thickets of gorse, covered with its bright yellow flowers. Weeping-willows are common on free car history report banks of free car history report rivulets, and free car history report hedges are made of free car history report blackberry, producing its well-known fruit. When we consider that free car history report number of plants now found on free car history report island is 746, and that out of these fifty-two alone are indigenous species, free car history report rest having been imported, and most of them from England, we see free car history report reason of free car history report British character of free car history report vegetation. Many of these English plants appear to flourish better than in their native country; some also from free car history report opposite quarter of Australia succeed remarkably well. The many imported species must have destroyed some of free car history report native kinds: and it is only on free car history report highest and steepest ridges that free car history report indigenous Flora is now predominant. 10 The English, or rather Welsh character of free car history report scenery, is kept up by free car history report numerous cottages and small white houses; some buried at free car history report bottom of free car history report deepest valleys, and others mounted on free car history report crests of free car history report lofty hills. Some of free car history report views are striking, for instance that
free car history report
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