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/desert/! . . . Not a vague, nondescript stretch of country such as in
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the outskirts of our towns, not one of the solitudes of Europe, but
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the threshold of the vast desolations of Arabia. /The desert/; and,
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even if we had not known that it was awaiting us, we should have
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recognised it by the indescribable quality of harshness and uniqueness
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which, in spite of the darkness, cannot be mistaken.
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But the night after all is not so black. It only seemed so, at the
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first moment, by contrast with the glaring illumination of the street.
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In reality it is transparent and blue. A half-moon, high up in the
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heavens, and veiled by a diaphanous mist, shines gently, and as it is
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an Egyptian moon, more subtle than ours, it leaves to things a little
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of their colour. We can see now, as well as feel, this desert, which
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hasd and imposed its silence upon us. Before us is the paleness
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of its sands and the reddish-brown of its dead rocks. Verily, in no
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country but Egypt are there such rapid surprises: to issue from a
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street flanked by shops and stalls and, without transition, to find
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this! . . .
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Our horses have, inevitably, to slacken speed as the wheels of our
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carriage sink into the sand. Around us still are some stray ramblers,
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who presently assume the air of ghosts, with their long black or white
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draperies, and noiseless tread. And then, not a soul; nothing but the
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sand and the moon.
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But now almost at once, after the short intervening nothingness, we
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find ourselves in a new town; streets with little low houses, little
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cross-roads, little squares, all of them white, on whitened sands,
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beneath a white moon. . . . But there is no electricity in this town,
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no lights, and nobody is stirring; doors and windows are shut: no
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movement of any kind, and the silence, at first, is like that of the
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surrounding desert. It is a town in which the half-light of the moon,
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amongst so much vague whiteness, is diffused in such a way that it
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seems to come from all sides at once and things cast no shadows which
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might give them definiteness; a town where the soil is so yielding
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that our progress is weakened and retarded, as in dreams. It seems
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unreal; and, in penetrating farther into it, a sense of fear comes
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over you that can neither be dismissed nor defined.
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For assuredly this is no ordinary town. . . . And yet the houses, with
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their windows barred like those of a harem, are in no way singular--
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except that they are shut and silent. It is all this whiteness,
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perhaps, which freezes us. And then, too, the silence is not, in fact,
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like that of the desert, which did at least seem natural, inasmuch as
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there was nothing there; here, on the contrary, there is a sense of
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innumerable presences, which shrink away as you pass but nevertheless
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continue to watch attentively. . . . We pass mosques in total darkness
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and they too are silent and white, with a slight bluish tint cast on
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them by the moon. And sometimes, between the houses, there are little
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enclosed spaces, like narrow gardens, but which can have no possible
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verdure. And in these gardens numbers of little obelisks rise from the
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sand--white obelisks, it is needless to say, for to-night we are in
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the kingdom of absolute whiteness. What can they be, these strange
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little gardens? . . . And the sand, meanwhile, which covers the
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streets with its thick coatings, continues to deaden the sound of our
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progress, out of compliment no doubt to all these watchful things that
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are so silent around us.
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At the crossings and in the little squares the obelisks become more
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numerous, erected always at either end of a slab of stone that is
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about the length of a man. Their little motionless groups, posted as
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if on the watch, seem so little real in their vague whiteness that we
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feel tempted to verify them by touching, and, verily, we should not be
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astonished if our hand passed through them as through a ghost. Farther
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on there is a wide expanse without any houses at all, where these
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ubiquitous little obelisks abound in the sand like ears of corn in a
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field. There is now no further room for illusion. We are in a
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cemetery, and have been passing in the midst of houses of the dead,
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and mosques of the dead, in a town of the dead.
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Once emerged from this cemetery, which in the end at least disclosed
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itself in its true character, we are involved again in the
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