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river of god
October 17.--The sheik and several Arabs went to the Settite to sow tobacco; they simply cast the seed upon the sandy loam left by the receding river, without even scratching the soil; it is thus left to take its chance. I accompanied him to the Settite, and came upon the tracks of a herd of about fifty elephants that had crossed the river a few days previous. As we were walking through the high grass we came upon a fine boa-constrictor (python), and not wishing to fire, as I thought I might disturb elephants in the neighbourhood, I made a cut at it with my heavy hunting-knife, nearly severing about four feet from the tail, but it escaped in the high grass. October 18.--A lion paid us a visit last night, roaring close to
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the tent at intervals, frightening Mahomet out of his wits.
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The seroot fly has entirely disappeared, and immense dragon flies are now arrived, and are greedily attacking all other flying insects. October 19.--Troops of baboons are now exceedingly numerous, as
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the country being entirely dried up, they are forced to the river
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for water, and the shady banks covered with berry-bearing shrubs
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induce them to remain. It is very amusing to watch these great
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male baboons stalking majestically along, followed by a large
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herd of all ages, the mothers carrying their little ones upon
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their backs, the latter with a regular jockey-seat riding most
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comfortably, while at other times they relieve the monotony of
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the position by sprawling at full length and holding on by their
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mother's back hair. Suddenly a sharp-eyed young ape discovers a
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bush well covered with berries, and his greedy munching being
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quickly observed, a general rush of youngsters takes place, and
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much squabbling for the best places ensues among the boys; this
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ends in great uproar when down comes a great male, who cuffs one,
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pulls another by the hair, bites another on the hind quarters
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just as he thinks he has escaped, drags back a would-be deserter
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by his tail and shakes him thoroughly, and thus he shortly
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restores order, preventing all further disputes by sitting under
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the bush and quietly enjoying the berries by himself. These
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baboons have a great variety of expressions that may perhaps
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represent their vocabulary: a few of these I begin to understand,
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such as their notes of alarm, and the cry to attract attention;
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thus, when I am sitting alone beneath the shade of a tree to
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watch their habits, they are at first not quite certain what kind
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of a creature I may be, and they give a peculiar cry to induce me
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to move and show myself more distinctly.
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October 20.--A lion was roaring throughout the night not far from the tent on his way towards the river to drink; at every roar he was answered by the deep angry cry of the baboons, who challenged him immediately from their secure positions on the high rocks and trees. I found the tracks of his large feet upon the bank of the river, but there is no possibility of finding these animals in the daytime, as they retire to the high grass upon the table lands. The banks of the Atbara are now swarming with small birds that
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throng the bushes (a species of willow), growing by the water's
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edge; the weight of a large flock bends down the slender boughs
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until they touch the water: this is their opportunity for
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drinking, as their beaks for an instant kiss the stream. These
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unfortunate little birds get no rest, the large fish and the
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crocodiles grab at them when they attempt to drink, while the
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falcons and hawks pursue them at all times and in every
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direction. Nothing is fat, as nothing can obtain rest, the
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innumerable birds and beasts of prey give no peace to the weaker
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kinds; the fattest alderman of the city of London would become a
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skeleton, if hunted for two hours daily by a hyaena.
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October 23.--This evening I took a walk, accompanied by my wife, and Bacheet with a spare gun, to try for a shot at guinea-fowl. We were strolling along the margin of the river, when we heard a great shrieking of women on the opposite side, in the spot from which the people of Sofi fetch their water. About a dozen women had been filling their water-skins, when suddenly they were attacked by a large crocodile, who attempted to seize a woman, but she, springing back, avoided it, and the animal swallowed her girba (water-skin), that, being full of water and of a brown exterior, resembled the body of a woman. The women rushed out of the river, when the crocodile made a second dash at them, and seized another water-skin that a woman had dropped in her flight. They believe this to be the same monster that took a woman a few months ago. Few creatures are so sly and wary as the crocodile. I watch them continually as they attack the dense flocks of small birds that throng the bushes at the water's edge. These birds are perfectly aware of the danger, and they fly from the attack, if possible. The crocodile then quietly and innocently lies upon the surface, as though it had appeared quite by an accident; it thus attracts the attention of the birds, and it slowly sails away to a considerable distance, exposed to their view. The birds, thus beguiled by the deceiver, believe that the danger is removed, and they again flock to the bush, and once more dip their thirsty beaks into the stream. Thus absorbed in slaking their thirst, they do not observe that their enemy is no longer on the surface. A sudden splash, followed by a huge pair of jaws beneath the bush that engulfs some dozens of victims, is the signal unexpectedly given of the crocodile's return, who has thus slyly dived, and hastened under cover of water to his victims. I have seen the crocodiles repeat this manoeuvre constantly; they deceive by a feigned retreat, and then attack from below. In like manner the crocodile perceives, while it is floating on
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the surface in mid-stream, or from the opposite side of the
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river, a woman filling her girba, or an animal drinking, &c. &c.
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Sinking immediately, it swims perhaps a hundred yards nearer, and
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again appearing for an instant upon the surface, it assures
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