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and sent the largest that I had just caught as a present to
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Florian and his people. The two fish as they lay upon the green
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reeds, glittering in silvery scales, were a sight to gladden the
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eyes of a fisherman, as their joint weight was above one hundred
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and twenty pounds. I caught another fish in the evening something
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over twenty pounds, an ugly and useful creature, the coor, that
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I despised, although it is a determined enemy while in play.
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October 10.--Set fire to the low spear grass of the valley. The river is now very low, exposing in many places large beds of shingle, and rocks hitherto concealed. The water level is now about thirty feet below the dried sedges and trash left by the high floods upon the overhanging boughs. The bed of the Atbara, and that of the Settite, are composed of rounded pebbles of all sizes, and masses of iron ore. Large oysters (Etheria), resembling the pearl oysters of Ceylon, are very numerous, and, from their internal appearance, with large protuberances of pearl matter, I should imagine they would most probably yield pearls. The wild animals have now deserted this immediate neighbourhood;
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the only creatures that are to be seen in numbers are the apes
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and monkeys: these throng the sides of the river, eating the
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tamarinds from the few large trees, and collecting gum from the
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mimosas. These hungry animals gather the tamarinds before they
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ripen, and I fear they will not leave a handful for us; nothing
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is more agreeable in this hot climate than the acidity of
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tamarind water. I remarked a few days ago, when walking along the
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dry sandy bed of the Till about five miles from the river, that
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the monkeys had been digging wells in the sand for water.
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Many changes are now taking place in the arrival and departure of various birds according to their migrations; immense numbers of buzzards and hawks have arrived, and keep my fowls in perpetual alarm. Ducks fly in large flocks up stream invariably, every day; storks of different kinds are arriving. Among the new comers is a beautiful little bird, in size and shape like a canary, but of a deep bluish black, with an ivory white bill and yellow lips. The beasts of prey are hungry, as the game has become scarce:--there is no safety for tame animals, and our goats will not feed, as they are constantly on the look-out for danger, starting at the least sound in the bushes, and running to the tents for security: thus their supply of milk is much reduced. The Sheik of Sofi, Hassan bel Kader, swam across the river with
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a present of fowls; these he had tied upon his head to prevent
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them from drowning. This man is a celebrated hippopotamus hunter,
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and I look forward to accompanying him upon a harpooning
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expedition, when the river is lower. His father was killed by a
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bull hippo that he had harpooned; the infuriated animal caught
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the unfortunate hunter in his jaws, and with one nip
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disembowelled him before his son's eyes. Accidents are constantly
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occurring in this dangerous sport, as the hunters are so
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continually in the water that they are exposed, like baits, to
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the attacks of crocodiles. During the last season one of the
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sheik's party was killed; several men were swimming the river,
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supported by inflated skins, when one was suddenly seized by a
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crocodile. Retaining his hold upon the support, his comrades had
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time to clutch him by the hair, and beneath the arms; thus the
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crocodile could not drag the buoyant skins beneath the surface.
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Once he was dragged from their grasp, but holding to his inflated
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skin, he regained the surface, and was again supported by his
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friends, who clung to him, while he implored them to hold him
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tight, as the crocodile still held him by the leg. In this way
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the hunters assisted him; at the same time they struck downwards
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with their spears at the determined brute, until they at last
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drove it from its hold. Upon gaining the shore, they found that
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the flesh of the leg from the knee downwards had been stripped
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from the bone, and the poor fellow shortly died.
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October 11.--The Arabs have murdered one of the Egyptian soldiers, about five miles from Sofi. All my people are more or less ill, but we, thank Heaven, are in excellent health; in fact, I have never been better than in this country, although I am constantly in hard exercise in the burning sun. October 15.--A fine breeze, therefore I set fire to the grass in
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all directions, which spread into a blaze over many miles of
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country. The fire immediately attracts great numbers of
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fly-catchers and buzzards; these hover in the smoke to catch the
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locusts and other insects that escape from the heat. Buzzards are
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so exceedingly bold, that it is one person's special duty to
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protect the strips of flesh when an animal is being cut up, at
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which time many scores collect, and swoop down upon their prey
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clutching a piece of meat with their claws, if left unguarded for
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a moment. Upon one occasion, the cook had just cleaned a fish of
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about a pound and a half weight, which he laid upon the ground
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while he stooped to blow the fire; in an instant a large buzzard
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darted upon it, and carried it off.
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Africa may have some charms, but it certainly is rather a trying country; in the rainy weather we have the impenetrable high grass, the flies, and the mud; when those entertainments are over, and the grass has ripened, every variety of herb and bush is more or less armed with lances, swords, daggers, bayonets, knives, spikes, needles, pins, fish-hooks, hay-forks, harpoons, and every abomination in the shape of points which render a leather suit indispensable to a sportsman, even in this hot climate. My knickerbockers are made of the coarse but strong Arab cotton cloth, that I have dyed brown with the fruit of the Acacia Arabica; but after a walk of a few minutes, I am one mass of horrible points from the spear grass, for about a foot from the upper part of my gaiters; the barbed points having penetrated, break off, and my trousers are as comfortable as a hedgehog's skin turned inside out, with the 'woolly side in.' I long for the time when the entire country will be dry enough
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