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August 17.--I set to work at daybreak to make a raft of bamboo and inflated skins. There is a wood called ambatch (Anemone mirabilis) that is brought down by the river from the upper country; this is lighter than cork, and I have obtained four large pieces for my raft. Mahomet has been very saucy to-day; he has been offensively impertinent for a long time, so this morning I punched his head. August 18.--Launched the raft; it carries four persons safely;
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but the current is too strong, and it is therefore unmanageable.
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In the afternoon I shot a large crocodile on the other side of
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the river (about two hundred yards) with the little Fletcher
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rifle, and after struggling for some time upon the steep bank it
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rolled into the water.
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The large tamarind trees on the opposite bank are generally full of the dog-faced baboons (Cynocephalus) in the evening, at their drinking-hour. I watched a large crocodile creep slyly out of the water, and lie in waiting among the rocks at the usual drinking-place before they arrived, but the baboons were too wide awake to be taken in so easily. A young fellow was the first to discover the enemy; he had accompanied several wise and experienced old hands, to the extremity of the bough that at a considerable height overhung the river; from this post they had a bird's-eye view, and reconnoitred before one of the numerous party descended to drink. The sharp eyes of the young one at once detected the crocodile, who matched in colour so well with the rocks, that most probably a man would not have noticed it until too late. At once the young one commenced shaking the bough and screaming with all his might to attract the attention of the crocodile, and to induce it to move. In this he was immediately joined by the whole party, who yelled in chorus, while the large old males bellowed defiance, and descended to the lowest branches within eight or ten feet of the crocodile. It was of no use--the pretender never stirred, and I watched it until dark; it remained still inn the same place, waiting for some unfortunate baboon whose thirst might provoke his fate; but not one was sufficiently foolish, although the perpendicular banks prevented them from drinking except at that particular spot. The birds in this country moult twice during the year, and those
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of the most brilliant colours exchange their gaudy hues for a
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sober grey or brown. Several varieties sing beautifully; the
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swallow also sings, although in Europe I have never heard it
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attempt more than its well-known twitter.
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One of the mimosas yields an excellent fibre for rope-making, in which my people are busily engaged; the bark is as tough as leather, and forms an admirable material for the manufacture of sacks. This business is carried to a considerable extent by the Arabs, as there is a large demand for sacks of sufficient size to contain two hundred and fifty or three hundred pounds of gum arabic (half a camel load). Thus one sack slung upon each side can be packed easily to the animal. August 19.--A dead elephant floated down the river to-day: this
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is the second that has passed within the last few days; they have
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been most probably drowned in attempting to cross some powerful
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torrent tributary to the Atbara. As usual, upon the fact becoming
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known, the entire village rushed out, and, despite the
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crocodiles, a crowd of men plunged into the river about a quarter
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of a mile below Sofi, and swimming out they intercepted the
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swollen carcase, which was quickly covered with people; they were
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carried several miles down the river before they could tow the
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body to shore, by ropes fastened to the swimmers. Afterwards,
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there was a general quarrel over the division of the spoil: the
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skin, in sections, and the tusks, were brought home in triumph.
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The country being now bright green, the antelopes are distinctly visible on the opposite side. Three tetel (Antelopus Bubalis) graze regularly together in the same place daily. This antelope is a variety of the hartebeest of South Africa; it is a reddish-chestnut colour, and is about the size of an Alderney cow. One of the mimosas (Acacia Arabica) produces a fruit in
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appearance resembling a tamarind: this is a powerful astringent
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and a valuable medicine in cases of fever and diarrhoea; it is
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generally used by the Arabs for preparing hides; when dry and
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broken it is rich in a hard gum, which appears to be almost pure
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tannin.
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August 20.--Close, hot, and damp weather; violent rain about sixteen hours out of the twenty-four. When the hot season sets in, the country will almost boil. This morning I counted 154 giraffes in one herd on the other side of the river; there were many more, but they passed each other so rapidly that I could not reckon the entire troop. August 21.--I counted 103 giraffes. There is literally no game
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upon this side (west) of the Atbara, as the country for twelve
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hours' journey from Sofi is thronged with Arabs during the dry
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season.
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All my people are more or less ill; I am not very well myself; but I have staved off an attack of fever by preventive measures. August 25.--Such a magnificent sunset I have never seen! From
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all quarters were gathering storms of the blackest description,
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each cloud emitting lightning without intermission, and as the
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sun touched the horizon upon the only clear point, it illumined
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like a fire the pitch-black clouds, producing the most
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extraordinary effect of vivid colouring, combined with lightning,
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and a rainbow.
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Rain in torrents throughout the night. It is now impossible to walk on the flat table land, as the soil is so saturated that it clings to the feet like birdlime, in masses that will pull the shoes off unless they fit tight. All this immense tract of rich land would grow any amount of cotton, or wheat, as in this country the rain falls with great regularity--this might be sent to Berber by boats during the season of flood. August 27.--My antelope skins are just completed and are
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thoroughly tanned. Each skin required a double handful of the
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