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Atbara, and the sudden bends of the river are hollowed out by the
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force of the stream to a depth of twenty or thirty feet below the
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level of the bed. Accordingly these holes become reservoirs of
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water when the river is otherwise exhausted. In such asylums all
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the usual inhabitants of this large river are crowded together in
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a comparatively narrow space. Although these pools vary in size,
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from only a few hundred yards to a mile in length, they are
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positively full of life; huge fish, crocodiles of immense size,
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turtles, and occasionally hippopotami, consort together in close
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and unwished-for proximity.
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The animals of the desert--gazelles, hyaenas, and wild asses--are
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compelled to resort to these crowded drinking-places, occupied by
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the flocks of the Arabs equally with the timid beasts of the
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chase. The birds that during the cooler months would wander free
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throughout the country, are now collected in vast numbers along
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the margin of the exhausted river; innumerable doves, varying in
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species, throng the trees and seek the shade of the dome palms;
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thousands of desert grouse arrive morning and evening to drink
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and to depart; while birds in multitudes, of lovely plumage,
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escape from the burning desert, and colonize the poor but welcome
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bushes that fringe the Atbara river.
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The heat was intense. As we travelled along the margin of the
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Atbara, and felt with the suffering animals the exhaustion of the
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clinmate, I acknowledged the grandeur of the Nile that could
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overcome the absorption of such thirsty sands, and the
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evaporation caused by the burning atmosphere of Nubia. For nearly
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1,200 miles from the junction of the Atbara with the parent
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stream to the Mediterranean, not one streamlet joined the
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mysterious river, neither one drop of rain ruffled its waters,
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unless a rare thunder-shower, as a curious phenomenon, startled
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the Arabs as they travelled along the desert. Nevertheless the
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Nile overcame its enemies, while the Atbara shrank to a skeleton,
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bare and exhausted, reduced to a few pools that lay like blotches
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along the broad surface of glowing sand.
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Notwithstanding the overpowering sun, there were certain
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advantages to the traveller at this season; it was unnecessary to
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carry a large supply of water, as it could be obtained at
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intervals of a few miles. There was an indescribable delight in
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the cool night, when, in the perfect certainty of fine weather,
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we could rest in theair with the clear bright starlit sky
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above us. There were no mosquitoes, neither were there any of the
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insect plagues of the tropics; the air was too dry for the gnat
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tribe, and the moment of sunset was the signal for perfect
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enjoyment, free from the usual drawbacks of African travel. As
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the river pools were the only drinking-places for birds and game,
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the gun supplied not only my own party, but I had much to give
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away to the Arabs in exchange for goat's milk, the meal of the
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dome nuts, &c. Gazelles were exceedingly numerous, but shy, and
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so difficult to approach that they required most careful
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stalking. At this season of intense heat they drank twice a
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day--at about an hour after sunrise, and half an hour before
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sunset.
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The great comfort of travelling along the bank of the river in a
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desert country is the perfect freedom, as a continual supply of
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water enables the explorer to rest at his leisure in any
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attractive spot where game is plentiful, or where the natural
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features of the country invite investigation. We accordingly
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halted, after some days' journey, at a spot named Collodabad,
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where an angle of the river had left a deep pool of about a mile
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in length: this was the largest sheet of water that we had seen
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throughout the course of the Atbara. A number of Arabs had
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congregated at this spot with their flocks and herds; the total
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absence of verdure had reduced the animals to extreme leanness,
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as the goats gathered their scanty sustenance from the seed-pods
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of the mimosas, which were shaken down to the expectant flocks by
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the Arab boys, with long hooked poles. These seeds were extremely
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oily, and resembled linseed, but the rank flavour was
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disagreeable and acrid.
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This spot was seven days' march from the Nile junction, or about
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160 miles. The journey had been extremely monotonous, as there
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