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by his tail and shakes him thoroughly, and thus he shortly
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restores order, preventing all further disputes by sitting under
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the bush and quietly enjoying the berries by himself. These
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baboons have a great variety of expressions that may perhaps
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represent their vocabulary: a few of these I begin to understand,
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such as their notes of alarm, and the cry to attract attention;
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thus, when I am sitting alone beneath the shade of a tree to
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watch their habits, they are at first not quite certain what kind
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of a creature I may be, and they give a peculiar cry to induce me
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to move and show myself more distinctly.
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October 20.--A lion was roaring throughout the night not far from the tent on his way towards the river to drink; at every roar he was answered by the deep angry cry of the baboons, who challenged him immediately from their secure positions on the high rocks and trees. I found the tracks of his large feet upon the bank of the river, but there is no possibility of finding these animals in the daytime, as they retire to the high grass upon the table lands. The banks of the Atbara are now swarming with small birds that
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throng the bushes (a species of willow), growing by the water's
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edge; the weight of a large flock bends down the slender boughs
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until they touch the water: this is their opportunity for
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drinking, as their beaks for an instant kiss the stream. These
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unfortunate little birds get no rest, the large fish and the
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crocodiles grab at them when they attempt to drink, while the
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falcons and hawks pursue them at all times and in every
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direction. Nothing is fat, as nothing can obtain rest, the
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innumerable birds and beasts of prey give no peace to the weaker
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kinds; the fattest alderman of the city of London would become a
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skeleton, if hunted for two hours daily by a hyaena.
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October 23.--This evening I took a walk, accompanied by my wife, and Bacheet with a spare gun, to try for a shot at guinea-fowl. We were strolling along the margin of the river, when we heard a great shrieking of women on the opposite side, in the spot from which the people of Sofi fetch their water. About a dozen women had been filling their water-skins, when suddenly they were attacked by a large crocodile, who attempted to seize a woman, but she, springing back, avoided it, and the animal swallowed her girba (water-skin), that, being full of water and of a brown exterior, resembled the body of a woman. The women rushed out of the river, when the crocodile made a second dash at them, and seized another water-skin that a woman had dropped in her flight. They believe this to be the same monster that took a woman a few months ago. Few creatures are so sly and wary as the crocodile. I watch them continually as they attack the dense flocks of small birds that throng the bushes at the water's edge. These birds are perfectly aware of the danger, and they fly from the attack, if possible. The crocodile then quietly and innocently lies upon the surface, as though it had appeared quite by an accident; it thus attracts the attention of the birds, and it slowly sails away to a considerable distance, exposed to their view. The birds, thus beguiled by the deceiver, believe that the danger is removed, and they again flock to the bush, and once more dip their thirsty beaks into the stream. Thus absorbed in slaking their thirst, they do not observe that their enemy is no longer on the surface. A sudden splash, followed by a huge pair of jaws beneath the bush that engulfs some dozens of victims, is the signal unexpectedly given of the crocodile's return, who has thus slyly dived, and hastened under cover of water to his victims. I have seen the crocodiles repeat this manoeuvre constantly; they deceive by a feigned retreat, and then attack from below. In like manner the crocodile perceives, while it is floating on
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the surface in mid-stream, or from the opposite side of the
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river, a woman filling her girba, or an animal drinking, &c. &c.
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Sinking immediately, it swims perhaps a hundred yards nearer, and
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again appearing for an instant upon the surface, it assures
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itself of the position of its prey by a stealthy look; once more
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it sinks, and reaches the exact spot above which the person or
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animal may be. Seeing distinctly through the water, it generally
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makes its fatal rush from beneath--sometimes seizing with its
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jaws, and at other times striking the object into the water with
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its tail, after which it is seized and carried off.
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The crocodile does not attempt to swallow a large prey at once, but generally carries it away and keeps it for a considerable time in its jaws in some deep hole beneath a rock, or the root of a tree, where it eats it at leisure. The tongue of the crocodile is so unlike that of any other creature that it can hardly be called by the same name; no portion throughout the entire length is detached from the flesh of the lower jaw--it is more like a thickened membrane from the gullet to about half way along the length of jaw. October 4.--Having burnt off a large surface of high grass, I
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discovered a quantity of gourds and wild cucumbers--the latter
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are bright crimson, covered with long fleshy prickles, with black
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horny tips; these are eaten by the baboons, but not by the Arabs.
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The gourds are only serviceable for cups and ladles manufactured
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from their shells.
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I find a good pair of Highland shooting shoes of great value; the soles were exceedingly thick, and they have resisted, until now, the intensely hard and coarse-grained sandstone which grinds through all leather. My soles are at length worn out, and I have repaired them with the tanned hide of giraffe. Much of the sandstone is white and soft and friable; but this appears to have been decomposed by time and exposure, as the generality is hard and would make excellent grindstones. October 25.--Three elephant-hunters arrived to-day with horses
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for sale. I purchased three--a bay and two greys. They are all of
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Abyssinian breed, and are handsome animals, although none exceed
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fourteen hands and a half. The prices were high for this part of
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the world where dollars are scarce; but to me, they appeared to
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be absurdly cheap. The bay horse was a regular strong-built cob;
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