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congregated at this spot with their flocks and herds; the total
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absence of verdure had reduced the animals to extreme leanness,
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as the goats gathered their scanty sustenance from the seed-pods
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of the mimosas, which were shaken down to the expectant flocks by
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the Arab boys, with long hooked poles. These seeds were extremely
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oily, and resembled linseed, but the rank flavour was
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disagreeable and acrid.
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This spot was seven days' march from the Nile junction, or about
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160 miles. The journey had been extremely monotonous, as there
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had been no change in the scenery; it was the interminable
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desert, with the solitary streak of vegetation in the belt of
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mimosas and dome palms, about a mile and a half in width, that
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marked the course of the river. I had daily shot gazelles, geese,
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pigeons, desert grouse, &c. but no larger game. I was informed
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that at this spot, Collodabad, I should be introduced for the
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first time to the hippopotamus.
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Owing to the total absence of nourishing food, the cattle
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produced a scanty supply of milk; thus the Arabs, who depended
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chiefly upon their flocks for their subsistence, were in great
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distress, and men and beasts mutually suffered extreme hardship.
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The Arabs that occupy the desert north of the Atbara are the
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Bishareens; it was among a large concourse of these people that
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we pitched our tents on the banks of the river at Collodabad.
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This being the principal watering-place along the deserted bed of
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the Atbara, the neighbourhood literally swarmed with doves, sand
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grouse, and other birds, in addition to many geese and pelicans.
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Early in the morning I procured an Arab guide to search for the
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reported hippopotami. My tents were among a grove of dome palms
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on the margin of the river; thus I had a clear view of the bed
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for a distance of about half a mile on either side. This portion
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of the Atbara was about 500 yards in width, the banks were about
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thirty feet perpendicular depth; and the bend of the river had
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caused the formation of the deep hollow on the opposite side
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which now formed the pool, while every other part was dry. This
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pool occupied about one-third the breadth of the river, bounded
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by the sand upon one side, and by a perpendicular cliff upon the
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other, upon which grew a fringe of green bushes similar to
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willows. These were the only succulent leaves that I had seen
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since I left Berber.
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We descended the steep sandy bank in a spot that the Arabs had
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broken down to reach the water, and after trudging across about
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400 yards of deep sand, we reached the extreme and narrowest end
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of the pool; here for the first time I saw the peculiar four-toed
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print of the hippopotamus's foot. A bed of melons had been
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planted here by the Arabs in the moist sand near the water, but
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the fruit had been entirely robbed by the hippopotami. A melon is
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exactly adapted for the mouth of this animal, as he could crunch
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the largest at one squeeze, and revel in the juice. Not contented
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with the simple fruits of the garden, a large bull hippopotamus
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had recently killed the proprietor. The Arab wished to drive it
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from his plantation, but was immediately attacked by the hippo,
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who caught him in its mouth and killed him by one crunch. This
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little incident had rendered the hippo exceedingly daring, and it
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had upon several occasions charged out of the water, when the
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people had driven their goats to drink; therefore it would be the
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more satisfactory to obtain a shot, and to supply the hungry
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Arabs with meat at the expense of their enemy.
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At this early hour, 6 A.M., no one had descended to the pool,
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thus all the tracks upon the margin were fresh and undisturbed:
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there were the huge marks of crocodiles that had recently
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returned to the water, while many of great size were still lying
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upon the sand in the distance: these slowly crept into the pool
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as we approached. The Arabs had dug small holes in the sand
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within a few yards of the water: these were the artificial
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drinking-places for their goats and sheep, that would have been
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snapped up by the crocodiles had they ventured to drink in the
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pool of crowded monsters. I walked for about a mile and a half
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along the sand without seeing a sign of hippopotami, except their
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