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It is two o'clock in the afternoon. A white angry fire pours from the
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sky, which is pale from excess of light. A sun inimical to the men of
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our climate scorches the enormous fossil which, crumbling in places,
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is all that remains of Thebes and which lies there like the carcass of
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a gigantic beast that has been dead for thousands of years, but is too
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massive ever to be annihilated.
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In the hypostyle there is a little blue shade behind the monstrous
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pillars, but even that shade is dusty and hot. The columns too are
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hot, and so are all the blocks--and yet it is winter and the nights
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are cold, even to the point of frost. Heat and dust; a reddish dust,
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which hangs like an eternal cloud over these ruins of Upper Egypt,
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exhaling an odour of spices and mummy.
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The great heat seems to augment the retrospective sensation of fatigue
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which seizes you as you regard these stones--too heavy for human
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strength--which are massed here in mountains. One almost seems to
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participate in the efforts, the exhaustions and the sweating toils of
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that people, with their muscles of brand new steel, who in the
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carrying and piling of such masses had to bear the yoke for thirty
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centuries.
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Even the stones themselves tell of fatigue--the fatigue of being
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crushed by one another's weight for thousands of years; the suffering
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that comes of having been too exactly carved, and too nicely placed
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one above the other, so that they seem to be riveted together by the
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force of their mere weight. Oh! the poor stones of the base that bear
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the weight of these awful pilings!
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And the ardent colour of these things surprises you. It has persisted.
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On the red sandstone of the hypostyle, the paintings of more than
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three thousand years ago are still to be seen; especially above the
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central chamber, almost in the sky, the capitals, in the form of great
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flowers, have kept the lapis blues, the greens and yellows with which
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their strange petals were long ago bespeckled.
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Decrepitude and crumbling and dust. In broad daylight, under the
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magnificent splendour of the life-giving sun, one realises clearly
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that all here is dead, and dead since days which the imagination is
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scarcely able to conceive. And the ruin appears utterly irreparable.
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Here and there are a few impotent and almost infantine attempts at
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reparation, undertaken in the ancient epochs of history by the Greeks
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and Romans. Columns have been put together, holes have been filled
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with cement. But the great blocks lie in confusion, and one feels,
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even to the point of despair, how impossible it is ever to restore to
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order such a chaos of crushing, overthrown things--even with the help
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of legions of workers and machines, and with centuries before you in
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which to complete the task.
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And then, what surprises and oppresses you is the want of clear space,
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the little room that remained for the multitudes in these halls which
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are nevertheless immense. The whole space between the walls was
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encumbered with pillars. The temples were half filled with colossal
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forests of stone. The men who built Thebes lived in the beginning of
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time, and had not yet discovered the thing which to us to-day seems so
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simple--namely, the vault. And yet they were marvellous pioneers,
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these architects. They had already succeeded in evolving out of the
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dark, as it were, a number of conceptions which, from the beginning no
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doubt, slumbered in mysterious germ in the human brain--the idea of
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rectitude, the straight line, the right angle, the vertical line, of
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which Nature furnishes no example, even symmetry, which, if you
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consider it well, is less explicable still. They employed symmetry
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with a consummate mastery, understanding as well as we do all the
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effect that is to be obtained by the repetition of like objects placed
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/en pendant/ on either side of a portico or an avenue. But they did
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not invent the vault. And therefore, since there was a limit to the
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size of the stones which they were able to place flat like beams, they
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had recourse to this profusion of columns to support their stupendous
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ceilings. And thus it is that there seems to be a want of air, that
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one seems to stifle in the middle of their temples, dominated and
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obstructed as they are by the rigid presence of so many stones. And
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yet to-day you can see quite clearly in these temples, for, since the
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