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mournful and stagnant, one would have been tempted to stop in passing,
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drawn by that nameless peace that belonged to the Old East and to
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Islam. But, now, before the smallest hamlet--amongst the beautiful
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primitive boats, that still remain in great numbers, pointing their
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yards, like very long reeds, into the sky--there is always, for the
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meeting of the tourist boats, an enormous black pontoon, which spoils
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the whole scene by its presence and its great advertising inscription:
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Thomas Cook & Son (Egypt Ltd.). And, what is more, one hears the
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whistling of the railway, which runs mercilessly along the river,
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bringing from the Delta to the Soudan the hordes of European invaders.
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And to crown all, adjoining the station is inevitably some modern
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factory, throned there in a sort of irony, and dominating the poor
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crumbling things that still presume to tell of Egypt and of mystery.
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And so now, except at the towns or villages which lead to celebrated
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ruins, we stop no longer. It is necessary to proceed farther and for
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the halt of the night to seek an obscure hamlet, a silent recess,
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where we may moor our dahabiya against the venerable earth of the
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bank.
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And so one goes on, for days and weeks, between these two interminable
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cliffs of reddish chalk, filled with their hypogea and mummies, which
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are the walls of the valley of the Nile, and will follow us up to the
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first cataract, until our entrance into Nubia. There only will the
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appearance and nature of the rocks of the desert change, to become the
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more sombre granite out of which the Pharaohs carved their obelisks
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and the great figures of their gods.
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We go on and on, ascending the thread of this eternal current, and the
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regularity of the wind, the persistent clearness of the sky, the
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monotony of the great river, which winds but never ends, all conspire
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to make us forget the hours and days that pass. However deceived and
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disappointed we may be at seeing the profanation of the river banks,
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here, nevertheless, isolated on the water, we do not lose the peace of
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being a wanderer, a stranger amongst an equipage of silent Arabs, who
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every evening prostrate themselves in confiding prayer.
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And, moreover, we are moving towards the south, towards the sun, and
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every day has a more entrancing clearness, a more caressing warmth,
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and the bronze of the faces that we see on our way takes on a deeper
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tint.
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And then too one mixes intimately with the life of the river bank,
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which is still so absorbing and, at certain hours, when the horizon is
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unsullied by the smoke of pit-coal, recalls you to the days of artless
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toil and healthy beauty. In the boats that meet us, half-naked men,
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revelling in their movement, in the sun and air, sing, as they ply
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their oars, those songs of the Nile that are as old as Thebes or
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Memphis. When the wind rises there is a riotous unfurling of sails,
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which, stretched on their long yards, give to the dahabiyas the air of
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birds in full flight. Bending right over in the wind, they skim along
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with a lively motion, carrying their cargoes of men and beasts and
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primitive things. Women are there draped still in the ancient fashion,
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and sheep and goats, and sometimes piles of fruit and gourds, and
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sacks of grain. Many are laden to the water's edge with these
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earthenware jars, unchanged for 3000 years, which the fellaheens know
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how to place on their heads with so much grace--and one sees these
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heaps of fragile pottery gliding along the water as if carried by the
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gigantic wings of a gull. And in the far-off, almost fabulous, days
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the life of the mariners of the Nile had the same aspect, as is shown
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by the bas-reliefs on the oldest tombs; it required the same play of
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muscles and of sails; was accompanied no doubt by the same songs, and
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was subject to the withering caress of this same desert wind. And
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then, as now, the same unchanging rose coloured the continuous curtain
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of the mountains.
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But all at once there is a noise of machinery, and whistlings, and in
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the air, which was just now so pure, rise noxious columns of black
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smoke. The modern steamers are coming, and throw into disorder the
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flotillas of the past; colliers that leave great eddies in their wake,
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or perhaps a wearisome lot of those three-decked tourist boats, which
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make a great noise as they plough the water, and are laden for the
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