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have to descend from our carriage, and passing through a low doorway
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penetrate on foot into the labyrinth of a Coptic quarter which is
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dying of dust and old age. Deserted houses that have become the
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refuges of outcasts; mushrabiyas, worm-eaten and decayed; little
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mousetrap alleys that lead us under arches of the Middle Ages, and
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sometimes close over our heads by reason of the fantastic bending of
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the ruins. Even by such a route as this are we conducted to a famous
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basilica! Were it not for these groups of Copts, dressed in their
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Sunday garb, who make their way like us through the ruins to the
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Easter mass, we should think that we had lost our way.
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And how pretty they look, these women draped like phantoms in their
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black silks. Their long veils do not completely hide them, as do those
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of the Moslems. They are simply placed over their hair and leave
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uncovered the delicate features, the golden necklet and the half-bared
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arms that carry on their wrists thick twisted bracelets of virgin
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gold. Pure Egyptians as they are, they have preserved the same
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delicate profile, the same elongated eyes, as mark the old goddesses
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carved in bas-relief on the Pharaonic walls. But some, alas, amongst
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the young ones have discarded their traditional costume, and are
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arrayed /a la franque/, in gowns and hats. And such gowns, such hats,
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such flowers! The very peasants of our meanest villages would disdain
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them. Oh! why cannot someone tell these poor little women, who have it
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in their power to be so adorable, that the beautiful folds of their
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black veils give to them an exquisite and characteristic distinction,
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while this poor tinsel, which recalls the mid-Lent carnivals, makes of
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them objects that excite our pity!
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In one of the walls which now surround us there is a low and shrinking
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doorway. Can this be the entrance to the basilica? The idea seems
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absurd. And yet some of the pretty creatures in the black veils and
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bracelets of gold, who were in front of us, have disappeared through
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it, and already the perfume of the censers is wafted towards us. A
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kind of corridor, astonishingly poor and old, twists itself
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suspiciously, and then issues into a narrow court, more than a
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thousand years old, where offertory boxes, fixed on Oriental brackets,
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invite our alms. The odour of the incense becomes more pronounced, and
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at last a door, hidden in shadow at the end of this retreat, gives
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access to the venerable church itself.
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The church! It is a mixture of Byzantine basilica, mosque and desert
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hut. Entering there, it is as if we were introduced suddenly to the
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na?ve infancy of Christianity, as if we surprised it, as it were, in
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its cradle--which was indeed Oriental. The triple nave is full of
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little children (here also, that is what strikes us first), of little
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mites who cry or else laugh and play; and there are mothers suckling
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their new-born babes--and all the time the invisible mass is being
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celebrated beyond, behind the iconostasis. On the ground, on mats,
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whole families are seated in circle, as if they were in their homes. A
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thick deposit of white chalk on the defaced, shrunken walls bears
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witness to great age. And over all this is a strange old ceiling of
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cedarwood, traversed by large barbaric beams.
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In the nave, supported by columns of marble, brought in days gone by
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from Pagan temples, there are, as in all these old Coptic churches,
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high transverse wooden partitions, elaborately wrought in the Arab
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fashion, which divide it into three sections: the first, into which
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one comes on entering the church, is allotted to the women, the second
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is for the baptistery, and the third, at the end adjoining the
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iconostasis, is reserved for the men.
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These women who are gathered this morning in their apportioned space--
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so much at home there with their suckling little ones--wear, almost
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all of them, the long black silk veils of former days. In their
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harmonious and endlessly restless groups, the gowns /a la franque/ and
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the poor hats of carnival are still the exception. The congregation,
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as a whole, preserves almost intact its na?ve, old-time flavour.
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And there is movement too, beyond, in the compartment of the men,
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which is bounded at the farther end by the iconostasis--a thousand-
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year-old wall decorated with inlaid cedarwood and ivory of precious
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antique workmanship, and adorned with strange old icons, blackened by
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time. It is behind this wall--pierced by several doorways--that mass
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