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this! . . .
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Our horses have, inevitably, to slacken speed as the wheels of our
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carriage sink into the sand. Around us still are some stray ramblers,
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who presently assume the air of ghosts, with their long black or white
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draperies, and noiseless tread. And then, not a soul; nothing but the
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sand and the moon.
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But now almost at once, after the short intervening nothingness, we
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find ourselves in a new town; streets with little low houses, little
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cross-roads, little squares, all of them white, on whitened sands,
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beneath a white moon. . . . But there is no electricity in this town,
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no lights, and nobody is stirring; doors and windows are shut: no
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movement of any kind, and the silence, at first, is like that of the
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surrounding desert. It is a town in which the half-light of the moon,
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amongst so much vague whiteness, is diffused in such a way that it
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seems to come from all sides at once and things cast no shadows which
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might give them definiteness; a town where the soil is so yielding
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that our progress is weakened and retarded, as in dreams. It seems
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unreal; and, in penetrating farther into it, a sense of fear comes
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over you that can neither be dismissed nor defined.
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For assuredly this is no ordinary town. . . . And yet the houses, with
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their windows barred like those of a harem, are in no way singular--
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except that they are shut and silent. It is all this whiteness,
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perhaps, which freezes us. And then, too, the silence is not, in fact,
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like that of the desert, which did at least seem natural, inasmuch as
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there was nothing there; here, on the contrary, there is a sense of
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innumerable presences, which shrink away as you pass but nevertheless
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continue to watch attentively. . . . We pass mosques in total darkness
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and they too are silent and white, with a slight bluish tint cast on
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them by the moon. And sometimes, between the houses, there are little
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enclosed spaces, like narrow gardens, but which can have no possible
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verdure. And in these gardens numbers of little obelisks rise from the
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sand--white obelisks, it is needless to say, for to-night we are in
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the kingdom of absolute whiteness. What can they be, these strange
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little gardens? . . . And the sand, meanwhile, which covers the
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streets with its thick coatings, continues to deaden the sound of our
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progress, out of compliment no doubt to all these watchful things that
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are so silent around us.
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At the crossings and in the little squares the obelisks become more
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numerous, erected always at either end of a slab of stone that is
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about the length of a man. Their little motionless groups, posted as
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if on the watch, seem so little real in their vague whiteness that we
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feel tempted to verify them by touching, and, verily, we should not be
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astonished if our hand passed through them as through a ghost. Farther
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on there is a wide expanse without any houses at all, where these
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ubiquitous little obelisks abound in the sand like ears of corn in a
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field. There is now no further room for illusion. We are in a
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cemetery, and have been passing in the midst of houses of the dead,
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and mosques of the dead, in a town of the dead.
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Once emerged from this cemetery, which in the end at least disclosed
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itself in its true character, we are involved again in the
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continuation of the mysterious town, which takes us back into its
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network. Little houses follow one another as before, only now the
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little gardens are replaced by little burial enclosures. And
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everything grows more and more indistinct, in the gentle light, which
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gradually grows less. It is as if someone were putting frosted globes
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over the moon, so that soon, but for the transparency of this air of
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Egypt and the prevailing whiteness of things, there would be no light
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at all. Once at a window the light of a lamp appears; it is the
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lantern of gravediggers. Anon we hear the voices of men chanting a
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prayer; and the prayer is a prayer for the dead.
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These tenantless houses were never built for dwellings. They are
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simply places where men assemble on certain anniversaries, to pray for
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the dead. Every Moslem family of any note has its little temple of
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this kind, near to the family graves. And there are so many of them
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that now the place is become a town--and a town in the desert--that is
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to say, in a place useless for any other purpose; a secure place
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indeed, for we may be sure that the ground occupied by these poor
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tombs runs no risk of being coveted--not even in the irreverent times
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