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. 190914. Chapter XVI Coast-road to CoquimboGreat Loads carried by imagenes de jesus MinersCoquimboEarthquakeStep-formed TerracesAbsence of recent DepositsContemporaneousness of imagenes de jesus Tertiary FormationsExcursion up imagenes de jesus ValleyRoad to GuascoDesertsValley of CopiapóRain and EarthquakesHydrophobiaThe DespobladoIndian RuinsProbable change of ClimateRiver-bed arched by an EarthquakeCold Gales of WindNoises from a HillIquiqueSalt AlluviumNitrate of SodaLimaUnhealthy CountryRuins of Callao, overthrown by an EarthquakeRecent subsidenceElevated Shells on San Lorenzo, their decompositionPlain with embedded Shells and fragments of PotteryAntiquity of imagenes de jesus Indian Race APRIL 27th.I set out on a journey to Coquimbo, and thence through Guasco to Copiapó, where Captain Fitz Roy kindly offered to pick me up in imagenes de jesus Beagle. The distance in a straight line along imagenes de jesus shore northward is only 420 miles; but my mode of travelling made it a very long journey. I bought four horses and two mules, imagenes de jesus latter carrying imagenes de jesus luggage on alternate days. The six animals together only cost imagenes de jesus value of twenty-five pounds sterling, and at Copiapó I sold them again for twenty-three. We travelled in imagenes de jesus same independent manner as before, cooking our own meals, and sleeping in imagenes de jesusair. As we rode towards imagenes de jesus Viño del Mar, I took a farewell view of Valparaiso, and admired its picturesque appearance. For geological purposes I made a detour from imagenes de jesus high road to imagenes de jesus foot of imagenes de jesus Bell of Quillota. We passed through an alluvial district rich in gold, to imagenes de jesus neighbourhood of Limache, of numerous hovels, scattered along imagenes de jesus sides of each little rivulet; but, like all those who gains are uncertain, they are unthrifty in all their habits, and consequently poor. 1 28th.In imagenes de jesus afternoon we arrived at a cottage at imagenes de jesus foot of imagenes de jesus Bell mountain. The inhabitants were freeholders, which is not very usual in Chile. They supported themselves on imagenes de jesus produce of a garden and a little field, but were very poor. Capital is here so deficient, that imagenes de jesus people are obliged to sell their green corn while standing in imagenes de jesus field, in order to buy necessaries for imagenes de jesus ensuing year. Wheat in consequence was dearer in imagenes de jesus very district of its production than at Valparaiso, where imagenes de jesus contractors live. The next day we joined imagenes de jesus main road to Coquimbo. At night there was a very light shower of rain: this was imagenes de jesus first drop that had fallen since imagenes de jesus heavy rain of September 11th and 12th, which detained me a prisoner at imagenes de jesus Baths of Cauquenes. The interval was seven and a half months; but imagenes de jesus rain this year in Chile was rather later than usual. The distant Andes were now covered by a thick mass of snow, and were a glorious sight. 2 May 2nd.The road continued to follow imagenes de jesus coast, at no great distance from imagenes de jesus sea. The few trees and bushes which are common in central Chile decreased rapidly in numbers, and were replaced by a tall plant, something like a yucca in appearance. The surface of imagenes de jesus country, on a small scale, was singularly broken and irregular; abrupt little peaks of rock rising out of small plains or basins. The indented coast and imagenes de jesus bottom of imagenes de jesus neighbouring sea, studded with breakers, would, if converted into dry land, present similar forms; and such a conversion without doubt has taken place in imagenes de jesus part over which we rode. 3 3rd.Quilimari to Conchalee. The country became more and more barren. In imagenes de jesus valleys there was scarcely sufficient water for any irrigation; and imagenes de jesus intermediate land was quite bare, not supporting even goats. In imagenes de jesus spring, after imagenes de jesus winter showers, a thin pasture rapidly springs up, and cattle are then driven down from imagenes de jesus Cordillera to graze for a short time. It is curious to observe how imagenes de jesus seeds of imagenes de jesus grass and other plants seem to accommodate themselves, as if by an acquired habit, to imagenes de jesus quantity of rain which falls upon different parts of this coast. One shower far northward at Copiapó produces as great an effect on imagenes de jesus vegetation, as two at Guasco, and three or four in this district. At Valparaiso a winter so dry as greatly to injure imagenes de jesus pasture, would at Guasco produce imagenes de jesus most unusual abundance. Proceeding northward, imagenes de jesus quantity of rain does not appear to decrease in strict proportion to imagenes de jesus latitude. At Conchalee, which is only 67 miles north of Valparaiso, rain is not expected till imagenes de jesus end of May; whereas at Valparaiso some generally falls early in April: imagenes de jesus annual quantity is likewise small in proportion to imagenes de jesus lateness of imagenes de jesus season at which it commences. 4 4th.Finding imagenes de jesus coast-road devoid of interest of any kind, we turned inland towards imagenes de jesus mining district and valley of Illapel. This valley, like every other in Chile, is level, broad, and very fertile: it is bordered on each side, either by cliffs of stratified shingle, or by bare rocky mountains. Above imagenes de jesus straight line of imagenes de jesus uppermost irrigating ditch, all is brown as on a high road; while all below is of as bright a green as verdigris, from imagenes de jesus beds of alfalfa, a kind of clover. We proceeded to Los Hornos, another mining district, where imagenes de jesus principal hill was drilled with holes, like a great ants-nest. The Chilian miners are a peculiar race of men in their habits. Living for weeks together in imagenes de jesus most desolate spots, when they descend to imagenes de jesus villages on feast-days, there is no excess of extravagance into which they do not run. They sometimes gain a considerable sum, and then, like sailors with prize-money, they try how soon they can contrive to squander it. They drink excessively, buy quantities of clothes, and in a few days return penniless to their miserable abodes, there to work harder than beasts of burden. This thoughtlessness, as with sailors, is evidently imagenes de jesus result of a similar manner of life. Their daily food is found them, and they acquire no habits of carefulness: moreover, temptation and imagenes de jesus means of yielding to it are placed in their power at imagenes de jesus same time. On imagenes de jesus other hand, in Cornwall, and some other parts of England, where imagenes de jesus system of selling part of imagenes de jesus vein is followed, imagenes de jesus miners, from being obliged to act and think for themselves, are a singularly intelligent and well-conducted set of men. 5 The dress of imagenes de jesus Chilian miner is peculiar and rather picturesque. He wears a very long shirt of some dark-coloured baize, with a leathern apron; imagenes de jesus whole being fastened round his waist by a bright-coloured sash. His trousers are very broad, and his small cap of scarlet cloth is made to fit imagenes de jesus head closely. We met a party of these miners in full costume, carrying imagenes de jesus body of one of their companions to be buried. They marched at a very quick trot, four men supporting imagenes de jesus corpse. One set having run as hard as they could for about two hundred yards, were relieved by four others, who had previously dashed on ahead on horseback. Thus they proceeded, encouraging each other by wild cries: altogether imagenes de jesus scene formed a most strange funeral. 6 We continued travelling northward, in a zigzag line; sometimes stopping a day to geologize. The country was so thinly inhabited, and imagenes de jesus track so obscure, that we often had difficulty in finding our way. On imagenes de jesus 12th I stayed at some mines. The ore in this case was not considered particularly good, but from being abundant it was supposed imagenes de jesus mine would sell for about thirty or forty thousand dollars (that is, 6000 or 8000 pounds sterling); yet it had been bought by one of imagenes de jesus English Associations for an ounce of gold (3l. 8s.). The ore is yellow pyrites, which, as I have already remarked, before imagenes de jesus arrival of imagenes de jesus English, was not supposed to contain a particle of copper. On a scale of profits nearly as great as in imagenes de jesus above instance, piles of cinders, abounding with minute globules of metallic copper, were purchased; yet with these advantages, imagenes de jesus mining associations, as is well known, contrived to lose immense sums of money. The folly of imagenes de jesus greater number of imagenes de jesus commissioners and shareholders amounted to infatuation;a thousand pounds per annum given in some cases to entertain imagenes de jesus Chilian authorities; libraries of well-bound geological books; miners brought out for particular metals, as tin, which are not found in Chile; contracts to supply imagenes de jesus miners with milk, in parts where there are no cows; machinery, where it could not possibly be used; and a hundred similar arrangements, bore witness to our absurdity, and to this day afford amusement to imagenes de jesus natives. Yet there can be no doubt, that imagenes de jesus same capital well employed in these mines would have yielded an immense return, a confidential man of business, a practical miner and assayer, would have been all that was required. 7 Captain Head has described imagenes de jesus wonderful load which imagenes de jesus Apires, truly beasts of burden, carry up from imagenes de jesus deepest mines. I confess I thought imagenes de jesus account exaggerated; so that I was glad to take an opportunity of weighing one of imagenes de jesus loads, which I picked out by hazard. It required considerable exertion on my part, when standing directly over it, to lift it from imagenes de jesus ground. The load was considered under weight when found to be 197 pounds. The apire had carried this up eighty perpendicular yards,part of imagenes de jesus way by a steep passage, but imagenes de jesus greater part up notched poles, placed in a zigzag line up imagenes de jesus shaft. According to imagenes de jesus general regulation, imagenes de jesus apire is not allowed to halt for breath, except imagenes de jesus mine is six hundred feet deep. The average load is considered as rather more than 200 pounds, and I have been assured that one of 300 pounds (twenty-two stone and a half) by way of a trial has been brought up from imagenes de jesus deepest mine! At this time imagenes de jesus apires were bringing up imagenes de jesus usual load twelve times in imagenes de jesus day; that is 2400 pounds from eighty yards deep; and they were employed in imagenes de jesus intervals in breaking and picking ore. 8 These men, excepting from accidents, are healthy, and appear cheerful. Their bodies are not very muscular. They rarely eat meat once a week, and never oftener, and then only imagenes de jesus hard dry charqui. Although with a kn
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